Frame rail carnage. Fix or forget.

[=Enigma=]

Guys, sorry for the rush here but I need a quick answer on how to proceed from someone experienced in this area.

I just got done stripping the tar based undercoating from the floor pans and was planning on simply applying some POR-15, but now I'm not sure whether to go ahead with that as planned ignoring the damage, or attempt to repair the damaged/dented frame rails first since POR is kind of a permanent thing.

The damage can be seen in the pics below. It looks like it was probably done by either or both the PO and mechanics putting the car on a lift, as well as a possible road hazard on the driver's side(caved in floor pan when I got it).

The dilemma is that I need to address this as quickly as possible since I'm down to bare metal. The car is stored outside in a car port, and I live 3 blocks from the ocean, so ocean fog and moisture is a concern. The good news is that I have yet to find a spec of rust, and I'd like to keep it that way.

So a few questions:

Do I need to worry about this from a structural standpoint, or is it mainly cosmetic and I can proceed as planned and just POR over it? All I plan on using the car for besides regular on road usage is aggressive mountain driving and an occasional autocross or track day event. I don't plan on ever having a motor with more than 200-250HP

What would be the easiest way to address this if that is the recommended route? I have pondered the following in order of extremity:

A) POR over it now, and strip it off later to fix if I change plans on HP or intended use, assuming it's not a structural threat at the moment. Is this even feasible? This stuff sounds permanent and hard to strip.

Drill some holes from the top and use a punch to straighten it out. possibly using some heat. I have some concerns about breaking loose spot welds if I do this.

C) Have a sheet metal guy bend me a piece that I can weld over the top that extends forward tying it into the T/C box. Note: I'm not a welder myself, but I can learn.......not sure if this is the best project to learn on....

d) Obtain replacement frame rails and replace the whole damn thing, and tie it into the rear subframe while I'm at it.....Probably extreme overkill....

I should have just left the damn undercoating on and found something better to do while waiting for parts to come in............Hindsight is 20-20.

Adam

[nwcubsman]

Go get an alignment and be sure everything is in its place. If it is, the worry is gone, unless strictly for resale. The Metal Ready will take care of any minor oxidation that takes place in the next day or so. You'll want to etch the metal anyway, prior to PORing.

[=Enigma=]

The car is disassembled at the moment but the alignment was fine prior to disassembly in looking at the tires that were on there for 20K miles or so when I purchased the car . This is old damage, not new. If I choose to make the repair, the car could be sitting as it is for a few weeks. If that's the route I choose to go, would coating it with some WD-40 or some grease hold me until then?

[xray]

Minor, nearly inconsequential (unless other bumps and waves make you think the car was hit and subsequently straightened out.) problem. At least you have frame rails and floors with no rust!!!

I seriously doubt it will affect resale value.

Metal Ready and POR, then forget about it.

Steve

[Arne]

90% or more of the Zs left on the road today will show similar "damage" - both of mine do. Too many years, too many opportunities for the tire monkeys to jack up the car in the wrong spot. (Yes, I can say that safely, I was a tire monkey for many years. A good one, I hope, but a tire monkey none the less.)

I agree with nwcubsman, if you know the car is alignable as it is now, POR it and forget it.

[er34gtt2000jp]

Minor, nearly inconsequential (unless other bumps and waves make you think the car was hit and subsequently straightened out.) problem. At least you have frame rails and floors with no rust!!!

I seriously doubt it will affect resale value.

Metal Ready and POR, then forget about it.

Steve

I second that!

I wish the rails on my 1970 were that nice!

You could get one of those weld on stud dent pullers and pull them back into better shape. That would be better than drilling holes if you really want to fix them.

If it really bothers you.

[a7dz]

After just replacing my right rail I would say there is no damage to yours that needs any more attention then you are giving it. This is one of those places where you have to think is it broke, ie not preforming what it is designed to do, if it is then fix it if not move on.

[Inf]

Mine shows similar damage, this is why I never let anyone fool around with my car that is not some sort of Z-expert. They will just throw a jack anywhere they please and bend that sheet metal up without a second thought.

[CoastGuardZ]

So the metal looks pretty darn good and that is a big plus. If time wasn't as big of a deal I would personally straighten out as much as possible and then do what fellow club member ED did... Weld some strengthening steel on top of them... He did a very nice job with his. Just like Arne mentioned, mine shows similar damage too (ala "Tire Monkeys").

[ecp48]

If you are truly concerned with the appearance. Check out Bad Dog Parts. They make frame rails. The 280 Rails will fit over the existing 280 Rails and are heavier steel. Check and see if the 240 Rails are the same. If so, just place over the existing dented rails and mig weld into place. From the tone of your heading I was expecting that you found a big rust problem, not a few dings.

[hls30.com]

Great reasons to install and clearly identify the single point jacking points from Baddogparts.com...

Will

[geezer]

Adam - It doesn't seem all that bad. If you dont have any alignment problems, visable cracks or rust through, it is only cosmetic. Years down the road if you plan further work, replace them then. I'm replacing mine now, along with the rockers, floor pans and rear quarters. These cars are about the easiest ones I've done as far as replacing these parts go. The availability of the parts needed is something I'm not used to. That's something for all of us to consider. How long before replacement panels are NLA?