kats Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share #877 Posted July 28, 2017 More study of the various types of nut, thank you Captain! I have a question, I will write it later. Blue ,I did not know Porsche and other manufacturers have the unique nut ! Kats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share #878 Posted July 28, 2017 I restored a parts catalog just a little bit, I bought it last week, from Germany. I found the support brackets were bent, I fixed them , not perfect but they are OK now .It joined my collections. Kats 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted August 5, 2017 Share #879 Posted August 5, 2017 Kats, I was sitting around looking at pictures of peoples builds on Instagram for GTR / 2000GT, and was looking for similarities between them and any of the Z's (either fitted with s20, or L-series) I wanted to ask, do people race and compare the chassis with each other over in Japan? Are there advantages/disadvantages between them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share #880 Posted August 9, 2017 On 2017/8/5 at 10:53 AM, heyitsrama said: Kats, I was sitting around looking at pictures of peoples builds on Instagram for GTR / 2000GT, and was looking for similarities between them and any of the Z's (either fitted with s20, or L-series) I wanted to ask, do people race and compare the chassis with each other over in Japan? Are there advantages/disadvantages between them? Hello heyitsrama, Thank you for asking, I am not for sure that I am replying for your questions, but I think people in Japan are passionate about racing in circuits and some street competitions , L-series vs S20. Many people are saying modify L-series engines are faster than stock S20, but there are some serious S20 racers show their fantastic ability . I am also curious which is faster than the other, but we can not say it without specifying category before the competition. Kats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26th-Z Posted August 9, 2017 Share #881 Posted August 9, 2017 Hey Rama! Yes, people over in Japan race and compare chassis just like we do in America. It's called "bench racing" (racing from the bench); the common automotive dialect of the main language, "Bull $^!#", well known throughout the universe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share #882 Posted August 14, 2017 (edited) Thanks Chris ! Captain Obvious, I am clear after review your prototype work , thanks. Today I found this, my 01/1970 Z432 and 03/1970 240Z do not have this U- bolt cramp on a steering rack. I search my parts box, there is a U bolt and a stopper. They came in a parts box which contained various stock S30 parts I bought. I was about to put it on but I suspended to do until I found the originality. I checked parts catalog Fairlady-Z and Datsun 240Z ( US &Canada/ Right hand drive / Left hand drive) , very early catalog ( November 1969) do not mention about this U-boot & stopper. What I found so far is this part can be seen in the June 1970 catalog , this is the earliest for the parts which is listing in my books. Has this issue already been discussed ? Also I want to know the white marking on the U-bolt, which direction should this white marking face to? I mean front or rear? I know the U-bolt is UP side , and the stopper is under the steering rack. Fairlady catalog is shwoing correctly, but Datsun 240Z catalog showing wrongly, up side down. Kats Edited August 14, 2017 by kats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share #883 Posted August 14, 2017 (edited) Dual exhaust system for L24 , Which one I should go , The front in the picture is the one for using stock L - series engine header, this is a factory optional item. ( 20100-E4105 : up to 09/1971 , 20100- E8730 from 10/1971) And the back is the one using the race option header for L24 and Z432 center and rear system. I can see the difference between them, The front pipe diameter is different, Z432 is bigger than the other. That is why this L -series front pipes have a welded metal piece on the pipes( not only for this but also very long pipes !) , ,and a reinforcement at the joint of the pipes and the center muffler. About this 20010-E4105 and 20010-E8730, the rear muffler is used from Z432 system to join the center muffler, so the diameter of the rear pipes of the center muffler are the same that of the Z432 center muffler. Also this time I tried to show the difference of early and late of the center muffler and the rear muffler. The difference is joint location. When the new center console applied 10/1971,the rear differential was moved 35mm back to align the center of the rear axle. This change made the joint location back a little bit. In these pictures, the race header with the Z432 center and rear system is the early type. The dual system using the factory header is later type( 20010-E8730) so you can see the difference of the joint location between them. Kats Edited August 14, 2017 by kats 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kats Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share #884 Posted August 15, 2017 And a few photos. Kats 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted August 15, 2017 Share #885 Posted August 15, 2017 16 hours ago, kats said: Also I want to know the white marking on the U-bolt, which direction should this white marking face to? I mean front or rear? I know the U-bolt is UP side , and the stopper is under the steering rack. Fairlady catalog is shwoing correctly, but Datsun 240Z catalog showing wrongly, up side down. Hi Kats, My impression is that the white paint mark on the 'U' clamp corresponds with the rubber 'snubber' block. The thread on that side is longer, and corresponds with the snubber block. When fitting, you tighten the nut on the side with the shorter thread just to the point where it is snug, then you tighten the nut on the snubber side so that the snubber block is firmly against the crossmember. The longer thread on that side allows you to do that. That's the way I've fitted them before, and it seems to make sense to me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted August 15, 2017 Share #886 Posted August 15, 2017 16 hours ago, kats said: Dual exhaust system for L24 , Which one I should go , The front in the picture is the one for using stock L - series engine header, this is a factory optional item. ( 20100-E4105 : up to 09/1971 , 20100- E8730 from 10/1971) And the back is the one using the race option header for L24 and Z432 center and rear system. I can see the difference between them, Kats, If this is for the L24 in your 240ZG, I would go with the later system. It seems to me that it is more appropriate for the later car. For my 432-R replica project car (1970 Fairlady Z-L based) I found a full 20010-E4201 and 20050-E4200 system. I am using an R192 diff in the stock, early, location. Pipe bending/shaping on the early system is very distinctive! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted August 15, 2017 Share #887 Posted August 15, 2017 19 hours ago, kats said: .....snipped..cjb.. Today I found this, my 01/1970 Z432 and 03/1970 240Z do not have this U- bolt cramp on a steering rack. I search my parts box, there is a U bolt and a stopper. They came in a parts box which contained various stock S30 parts I bought. I was about to put it on but I suspended to do until I found the originality. .....snipped..cjb... Kats Hi Kats: My first 240Z - HLS30 01777 -purchased in March of 1970 - did not have the Clamp on the steering rack. It was Dealer Installed - as I recall - sometime around Nov./ Dec. of 1970. I had taken the Z back to the Dealer because the shocks were leaking again. They installed the Clamp at that time and pointed it out to me. Even before that time we knew the steering rack was too loosely mounted - you could feel it in the steering wheel. The steering rack had a lot of play (movement) in its original rubber mounts. You could feel this during hard driving - on an Auto-X course for example. At the time, the cure was to place a section of Lead tire weights - the type used to balance aluminum wheels - thin strips of lead with two sided stick-on adhesive - on top of the rubber rack isolators - and then clamp everything down firmly. This tightened up the steering response. This having already been done - I never noticed any difference with or without that Clamp installed. If I had to guess - the Clamp and Bumper was just a way to limit the amount of travel the Rack had in the soft rubber mounts. FWIW, Carl B. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason240z Posted December 17, 2017 Share #888 Posted December 17, 2017 Hi Kats, any update with your amazing cars? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now