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Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432


kats

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On 10/20/2018 at 3:26 PM, Gav240z said:

Which might explain why shifting to 5th always felt strange compared to rowing through the first 4 gears.

Yeah , I have never driven FS5W71B , but I can imagine. 5th is one way operating gear , I mean it does not have “ down shift “ , this makes the fift gear less likely worn out than the other gears . So Nissan remain the Porche type synchro for the fifth gear ? 

Kats

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FS5C71A has big two nuts for securing the fifth gear , this design is a cause of common trouble of surging the gear and the hub by the big two nuts become loose.

Mr . Kawashima has been rebuilding so many Nissan transmissions , he puts a single big nut with special securing method for the fifth gear of FS5C71A If customers want it . 

Also he recommends using a 71B upgraded folks , double sealing for the control lever etc . 

He offers me FS5C71A with all the Warner synchro modification, I think it will be very nice but , I just like the original at the moment.

Kats

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These two FS5C71A rebuilt by Mr.Kawashima , one is in my Z432 and the one is taking a rest after driving a few thousand kilometers.

I checked the big two nuts , they are rock solid ! Mr. Kawashima tightened them properly. 

Kats

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On 11/3/2018 at 1:50 AM, kats said:

Yeah , I have never driven FS5W71B , but I can imagine. 5th is one way operating gear , I mean it does not have “ down shift “ , this makes the fift gear less likely worn out than the other gears . So Nissan remain the Porche type synchro for the fifth gear ?

I will trade you a drive of a 71b gearbox, for a drive of an S20 powered S30z? ?

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Today I did some work on the S20, Japan is now nice but little bit chilly in the morning and evening. I adjusted carbs at an airport parking lot before my flig?ht

The carbs were summer set up , I was hoping I set for autumn, but I tried not to touch a lot . I felt I must stay with Mr . Watanabe ‘s tuning . My work is not perfect , I am just an amateur . 

Kats

 

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Edited by kats
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Hi , two cars comparison.

Both are 1972 model , and survivor, . They are not restored , but have had been well taken care of from original owners.

As you guess and see both , the orange is nicer than the maroon . California climate? Maybe , but this maroon is keeping very good condition as spending its life in humid Japan .I realized we can keep our car like this if we take care of our car very well even in Asian countries.

 I think the difference came from “ history “  of each cars. The maroon had some scratches on the left hand front fender and door , and little bit under the left hand rear bumper , near the muffler. The orange did not have such injuries. This makes maroon looks inferior of its exterior condition to the orange, the repair job at that time ( 1973 and after ) was not good  . But I like its history,  then It makes me feel difficult to decide remain as it is , or paint it like new with whole new parts which I have stored.

Also the orange still has complete carpet and jute set , even each one has a paper stamp of quality inspection. The maroon is missing two front jute set , all the others are remained with the car . Tools , wheels, hubcaps , and speakers

, seats , these hard to keep things with cars are original.  I can compare one by one , the one has spent its life in the US , and the other one has spent its life in Japan . Some parts are looked identical of its condition, but some parts are not the same , it is fun to guess what made these parts looked different. 

And both have a lot of receipts from the begging ! 

Kats

 

 

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@kats

 

Here is a nice solution for keeping wheel-to-hub nice: Anti-seize

 

The salt on the roads here can bond the wheel to the hub (especially if hub-centric). 

 

For a classic liek yours, brushing a light coat of anti-seize on the hub surface reduces/hides rust. 

 

I always put on the studs too but others do not.

 

Below is an example of a Miata hub from the net.

 

image.png

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