Those repairs look fabulous. You are correct longevity is really important

Now let’s find out what it is, an inlet opening for the blower motor. I feel something uneasy, but I can’t tell where it comes from. I took this picture yesterday, from an unique car.

Kats

Hi , I can’t stop doing this, a guitar with a Z.

 I finally met my dream guitar, it has a stamped JUN 1969 (my birthday is 18th June 1969) on the neck and it is a Lake Placid Blue ! The Internal electrical parts are mixed with a few 1966 and mostly 1969 which are looked to be original.

The amplifier is 1968 made which is the best combination for the guitar. 
 

Made in USA guitar and amp spent 53 years in the USA. Other one is made in Japan 1970 240Z spent 51 years in the USA . 
Now they met each other in Japan and started to belong to a 53 year old Japanese owner.

Thanks to the large luggage room, I guess designers and engineers might expect for younger generations to have full load of musical instruments on the deck . My guitar and amp fitted just like bespoke.

Kats

If a Stratocaster could ask for anything for Christmas, it would be a David Gilmour.

Rock n Roll, Kats!

11 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

If a Stratocaster could ask for anything for Christmas, it would be a David Gilmour.

He is my favorite guitarist, I wish I could play like him . 
Kats

Hi , I tested fittings of a replica Z432-R bonnet which was duplicated from an original Z432-R bonnet. The fiberglass was selected to much the original one, I simply love to see the fiberglass cloth material and the way of structure inside.

 I did some adjustments but still in a half way of proper looking. A big issue is bending upwards at the left corner end.

Maybe I heat it up and push it down? I am feeling it will not work for FRP. Maybe a garden stone on the corner to sit down little bit but how long will it need? A month? Or a year? 

Kats
 

Edited December 15, 20222 yr by kats

Looks spot-on to me, Kats. Great colour choice too.

FRP bonnet has to fit imperfectly to be perfectly authentic-feeling.

That's what they were like!

Kats

Heat is probably not going to work on FRP. It's likely to only break it down. Weight is unlikely to work either. I would set the bump stops at the correct height and figure out a way to make the latch tighter using the bump stops to hold the hood at the correct level.

9 hours ago, kats said:

A big issue is bending upwards at the left corner end.

Maybe I heat it up and push it down? I am feeling it will not work for FRP. Maybe a garden stone on the corner to sit down little bit but how long will it need? A month? Or a year? 

Kats

Patcon is right, heat won't work.  The resin is a thermoset, like a 2K paint.  Once it sets, it's done.

Your best bet might be more FRP underneath.  Fixture is so that it is where you want it and lay on some fiberglass strips with resin.  They will be under tension after curing so should work well.  The hardest, most important, part will be getting good adhesion to the material that has already cured.

A boat builder/repairer should have the materials and know how.

Or >>> hood pins.

11 hours ago, HS30-H said:

Looks spot-on to me, Kats. Great colour choice too.

FRP bonnet has to fit imperfectly to be perfectly authentic-feeling.

That's what they were like!

Thank Alan! That is what I am feeling about for racing cars. 

Kats

Thanks Patcon and Zed Head,

 I will follow your advices. So I will do like this,

#1 Patcon, try adjustments 

#2 Alan, enjoy authentic-feeling 

#3 Zed Head, if I have budget and repair man is willing to do. Hood pin is a good idea too,it also links to authentic-feeling

Kats

 

Edited December 16, 20222 yr by kats