Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

[kats]

Hi moelk, some one put a hand made trumpet on the emblem, and some one bought a later horn pad with a trumpet, then threw away an early horn pad without a trumpet. 

But, basically to most of the items , if your car is registered before the cut off date, the new rule is not applicable to your car. A Shaken tester sees the registered date if he has a question when checking the car.   

Having a trumpet is better than not-having,  this way of thinking made some dealer salesman (or mechanic) suggest customer to replace an old beautiful horn pad with a later trumpet one.

Kats

Edited July 16, 2017 by kats

[Captain Obvious]

Hi Kats,

That's not a stopper, and in use, that surface should not be making contact with anything. Those lug nuts are actually made from two pieces. They machine the threaded portion as one piece, and the tapered section is actually a ring of separate material that is pressed on later. The surface you labeled as stopper is actually the end shoulder of the surface onto which the tapered ring is pressed on.

They could  have cut the whole thing from just one piece of material, but I suspect they made it out of two pieces because it's easier, and cheaper (since it requires less material with less waste in the form of chips from the turning operations).

They probably started with hex rod for the inner part (that way they didn't have to machine the hex), but because of starting from hex rod, they couldn't have any feature larger in diameter than that hex, unless it came from a different piece of material. So they used a larger round rod and cut the tapered section from that, and then joined the two parts together at the end and plated them.

[Captain Obvious]

Hi again Kats,

It's kind of hard to describe machining operations with just words and I'm not sure if my description above makes sense. If it doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll whip up a sketch showing the parts. 

[moelk]

1 hour ago, kats said:

Hi moelk, some one put a hand made trumpet on the emblem, and some one bought a later horn pad with a trumpet, then threw away an early horn pad without a trumpet. 

But, basically to most of the items , if your car is registered before the cut off date, the new rule is not applicable to your car. A Shaken tester sees the registered date if he has a question when checking the car.   

Having a trumpet is better than not-having,  this way of thinking made some dealer salesman (or mechanic) suggest customer to replace an old beautiful horn pad with a later trumpet one.

Kats

Ok, Thanks.

Have a blue Z on my Japanese steering wheel.

[kats]

11 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Hi again Kats,

It's kind of hard to describe machining operations with just words and I'm not sure if my description above makes sense. If it doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll whip up a sketch showing the parts. 

Hello Captain Obvious !

Thank you for the explanation, I was wrong , it is not the stopper. Now I am clear , thank you.

However , I am not clear about " how to make it " , so if you show me your sketch , that will be wonderful. 

I want to see inside of the nut, but I do not  want to cut it half. 

Kats

[kats]

Hi moelk,

Nice horn pad ! And 240km speedometer,

Celsius water/kg oil gage, rally clock, looks like your car has JDM flavor.

Kats

 

[Captain Obvious]

Hi Kats,

Glad to help! I'll draw up a sketch showing what I believe the manufacturing process to be.

And one last thought on the stopper... The only thing that should stop that nut from going on any further is the tapered angled surface of the nut should contact a matching angled surface down inside the lug stud hole in the wheel. The four angled surfaces on the four nuts are what locates and centers the wheel properly on the car.

[Captain Obvious]

Kats, Here's a crude sketch of how I believe they made those lug nuts:

They could have made the entire nut from one piece, but they would have needed to start with the lager rod and they would have needed to create the hex portion in a different operation. Making hex shapes on a lathe is a more difficult thing to do, so if you start with hex shaped material, then everything is simple lathe work. If you have to actually cut the hex shape, you need a more complicated machine. You may even have to transfer the parts to a different machine completely in order to cut the hex. Starting with hex shaped material allows them to do everything on simple lathes and also reduces the amount of total material they have to remove in order to create the final part.

One other advantage to using two parts is that it allows them to use different materials for the two portions. I don't know if they did something like that, but for example, it could have allowed them to do something like use a hardened seat on the tapered locating washer while still having a more ductile unhardened threaded portion.

[Jason240z]

On 16/07/2017 at 1:49 PM, kats said:

Hi Jason240z, using lathe is a good idea, and one big question, how do you make this stopper? Please see the picture.

Kats

Hi

Is it a slip collar? Have you a pic from the other side?

I'm going to see Alan for a coffee in the next week or so, i'll ask if he's got one I can look at/borrow to take to a local machine shop to see what they say about making a batch, if that would help and its ok with Alan?

[Captain Obvious]

Jason, he had posted a pic from the other end earlier in the thread. You can clearly see the joint line between the two parts of the assy  in that other pic as well:

[HS30-H]

1 hour ago, Jason240z said:

Hi

Is it a slip collar? Have you a pic from the other side?

I'm going to see Alan for a coffee in the next week or so, i'll ask if he's got one I can look at/borrow to take to a local machine shop to see what they say about making a batch, if that would help and its ok with Alan?

Jason,

Yes, I have a set but you'll have to prise one out of my cold, dead hand. Originals are not replaceable!

I've shown them to a few engineering shops, most of whom don't want to know. Apparently they'd need to make a special fixture to crimp the 60 degree collar onto the nut *just right* (so that it spins freely), and minimum 5,000 off.

Nuts.

 

[Captain Obvious]

Wait, so that collar actually spins free from the shank? It's not pressed on tight? That's more difficult.

Nice feature though!