I have question for anyone; has anyone installed the stroker mod from MSA they claim it takes your 280 to 3100cc ? And what are the major improvements over stock?

There is quiet a bit of those around. You might be able to find more information over at hybridz.org, but do some searching before you ask any questions because they like to snap at you if you ask a question that has already been covered.

From what I hear, it improves torque quiet a bit. Though the 2.8L depending on stroke and if you do a bore can go from 3.0L to 3.2L safely.

I love this video!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2382048404444900926&q=240z+stroker&hl=en

Sounds like a meaty V8. Two bad words in it.

I know myself, I am going to stroke my L24 one of these days, which will take it to 2.7L.

i think if you try to order stroker kot you will discover they can not source the crankshaft - appears to be a long term supply problem.

I know of 2 people who have attempted to order in the last 6 months.

Good luck!

The crank is out of a 1983-84 Maxima Diesel. THe Maxima Diesel was a 2.8L Diesel inline six. The block was identicle to the L28 with the exception of the deck height which was increased to hold the long stroke. The crank out of these blocks (Also known as a V07 or LD28 crank) has approximately .25" more throw (that's my measurements, sorry don't have a micrometer) than the stock L28 crank (AKA P30). Unfortunately this fantastic stroker crank has been NLA from the factory for a very long time and attempts to have it reproduced have come up empty or over priced. One quote was $1600 just for the crank and there would have to be more than just a one off sale.

The rods for the stroker are from a L24. The L24 rods are shorter which is necessary due to the longer throw of the crank.

The pistons are out of a 240SX KA24 4 cylinder. They have the right pin height and size and their 89mm, 3mm up from the stock 86mm 2.8L pistons.

The supposed best block for this setup is still a matter of debate. Many have said the F54 because of it's stiff cylinders from added webbing and better cooling, others have said (and I've not seen this verified) the N42 block because it's thicker around the cylinder. With a .120" overbore thicker walls would be better, but I've yet to see any proof. I have both block torn down in my garage and I didn't see any noticeable difference in the cylinders after pulling the freeze plugs out of either one. I went with the F54 for my project though because stiff cylinders are strong cylinders and the added support has been documented for the F54. Hope this is helpful.

For the last year I have been autoxing a 240 with 3.1 stroker. The guy that ownes the car has been running it on the street and the course since the mid 90's. He used the N42 block and an N42 head. The motor has around 13:1 compression and a very worked head. The motor probably makes 300 HP (at the crank). He has never had any problem with the block and never had an over heating problem either (uses the 3 row radiator). A 2.8 can make the same hp but the torque can never be matched with the 2.8. If you want an inline 6 with big torque the 3.1 is for you. But to get the power out you need to spend time or money or both on the head, the conversion alone does not do that much, the real power is from the head.

Thanks guys; I didn't realize that it would be that complex. MSA makes it sound like it is an easy conversion.

You may want to read this...

http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html

Or this:

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm