Jb Weld!!!

[280z1975]

After I reading these stories this is why I like to carry a bit of string, duct tape, zip ties, a small tube of super glue and JB weld in my emergency kit in my car ... add in a paper clip to the mix and Macgyver can build you a Z

[TomoHawk]

if you can press your fingernail or put fingerprints into "cured" JB Weld, then it means that it still hasn't cured yet, probably because the mix wasn't mixed thoroughly, or the proportions were just a hair off. The temperature during cure can affect the cure harness too. I still have a few blobs on the bench that haven't completely hardened after many months, with different mix ratios; the one mixed up properly hardened as you would expect.

thx

[rewiredz]

I've used this stuff to fix a carburetor on a lawnmower that was cracked and sucking air,

throwing off the mixture. been about five years and its still holding and doing its job.

i also used it on the valve cover of my jeep to fix a crack (not really big enough to matter,

but it still bothered me), but that is coming off, could have the mixture wrong or something.

overall its a good product, especially if your dealing with areas that have gas on them.

about the hardest thing is getting the mixture right, but its not to hard to figure out.

[Surfsup]

thanks everyone. it wouldnt be a good idea to use on it floor boards huh? well this is what i did.

i bondoed the holes, they werent huge though, then i plan to weld some metal scrap on top of it? would jb weld do the job?

aha thanks

[EScanlon]

You'd be better off using POR-15 and their Power-Mesh material to "make" the floor metal you need.

This is actually a very cheap way of doing the floor (as a stop gap vs proper sheet metal replacement).

I can't say the same about the Bondo though, especially on the floor with the backside exposed to the ground AND the grit that's it's sure to get hit with!

2¢

E

[Surfsup]

You'd be better off using POR-15 and their Power-Mesh material to "make" the floor metal you need.

This is actually a very cheap way of doing the floor (as a stop gap vs proper sheet metal replacement).

I can't say the same about the Bondo though, especially on the floor with the backside exposed to the ground AND the grit that's it's sure to get hit with!

2¢

E

wait so this stuff, the fiber power mesh, all i would have to do is, place it over the whole and por15 it on top?

thanks

[350zx]

ok.i have a 1981 280zx and i cant find a carbin fiber hood.help!!!

[TomoHawk]

You don't need one.

[350zx]

do thay even make carbin fiber hoods for for the 81 zx?

[350zx]

or should i just leave the car as is?

[DeesZ]

I have used JB Weld for a lot of things that I thought were hopeless basket cases (in some cases with a young child asking "Daddy, please try!" I gave it a shot). I have had great results with the stuff. PLEASE be aware that where I buy the stuff (my local NAPA) there are two varieties of the stuff - Regular and Quick (might be spelled Kwik or something like that). The Quick Weld states a quicker curing time and a lower resistance to heat. I tried it once for something and it worked okay, but in my opinion I'd stick with the original formula for important repairs.

For the floorboard repair I'd stay away from bondo. Many folks say that bondo and moisture are a poor combination. The POR fix is likely the avenue I would take as a stop-gap approach. I think it'll also be best to get off as much of the rust as you can first. That'll leave you with larger pin holes, but lessen the chance of reoccurance.

Guess what, yep, I've got a Buick, and it's sporting JB Weld in a few spots.

It's funny, I came to the board to ask y'all your opinions for a repair job that I am considering JB for, and found this thread right on top! I'll start a separate thread for that one rather than hijack this one.

[Surfsup]

I have used JB Weld for a lot of things that I thought were hopeless basket cases (in some cases with a young child asking "Daddy, please try!" I gave it a shot). I have had great results with the stuff. PLEASE be aware that where I buy the stuff (my local NAPA) there are two varieties of the stuff - Regular and Quick (might be spelled Kwik or something like that). The Quick Weld states a quicker curing time and a lower resistance to heat. I tried it once for something and it worked okay, but in my opinion I'd stick with the original formula for important repairs.

For the floorboard repair I'd stay away from bondo. Many folks say that bondo and moisture are a poor combination. The POR fix is likely the avenue I would take as a stop-gap approach. I think it'll also be best to get off as much of the rust as you can first. That'll leave you with larger pin holes, but lessen the chance of reoccurance.

Guess what, yep, I've got a Buick, and it's sporting JB Weld in a few spots.

It's funny, I came to the board to ask y'all your opinions for a repair job that I am considering JB for, and found this thread right on top! I'll start a separate thread for that one rather than hijack this one.

thanks. so i guess ima have to take out the bondo, and use the por stuff.

.