LOUD ringing noise from inside . .

[EScanlon]

...snip...As for the switch, i went to the shop today and he told me exactly what NissanMan had said, The switch when turn on sends more power to the fuel pump for more gas to be pushed. But, thinking about this, the only time I would EVER need to do this would be when i have the gas at full throttle and am nearing 4-5K rpms . . . . right?

I had overlooked your original picture, and incorrectly thought that SleepyZ had been the one to mention it. My apologies to SleepyZ.

I'm only commenting with regards to the wiring, as to why one would want/need addtional fuel pressure at any point I'll leave to the mechanical gurus.

...snip...

But i have come upon other things that i have a question about.

1) In tons of pics i see these Fuesable link setups, like in http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25506 but i don't have this anywhere in my car. I only have the one behind the dash (picture in this thread. one with the switch) I was wondering if the 73 came with this or not.

The picture linked to on the fuseable links' link (pun inadvertent), the first post's picture is of a NON-STOCK set-up.

It is what some DIY mechanic decided to do to fix the car to operating condition. It may well have been that these links were "cheaper" for him or considered an "upgrade". It may be as simple as that part of the wiring harness was damaged beyond repair / use and a repair had to be made.

Sometimes, it's simply a matter of getting the car RUNNING in order to get to work on Monday and whatever it takes - - TODAY - - to get it fixed is what becomes the repair - of - choice.

FWIW

E

[EScanlon]

Thanks Chris; Hopefully my text didn't come off as stepping on your post. I laughed because it's just that this ALWAYS seems to come up, and we can relate to the FIRST time WE ever sat in the car and "figured it out".

I've even had people think the rivet was going bad and they needed to smash it tighter....which is what Nissan did in later years....which of course ruins the belt and now replacement IS necessary. This because they simply assumed that the shoulder and lap belts were indeed RIVETED together, and when one "fell apart" they thought they needed to replace it, when it had simply been aligned properly and it got bumped....

E

[ChrisA]

I laughed because it's just that this ALWAYS seems to come up, and we can relate to the FIRST time WE ever sat in the car and "figured it out". E

Yep, I can definitely relate.

Chris

[MikeW]

Look at the SHANK of the rivet on the over-the-shoulder clasp and you'll see that it has the sides flattened...not from excessive wear but by design. That "thinned" out portion of the shank will, when aligned to the slots in the back portion of the lap belt's clasp, will slide THROUGH those slots and then be CAPTURED by the round hole that the slot connects to.

The rear passenger seat belts in my 240SX have this same design. It was constantly getting detached when my son was riding back there. I "fixed" this problem by threading a small bolt and nut through the elongated hole after attaching the shoulder belt portion such that the two can no longer come apart accidentally.