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new rebuild, won't crank anymore, help!


2003z

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I finally got my engine all back together and in the car and got to the point of starting it. It cranked for about 5-10 seconds then stopped. I thought it was the battery, but I've had it on a charger for over an hour and still nothing. I can see the engine move a little when the starter teeth engage the flywheel, so the starter is def. moving.

Is it possible for the engine to sieze with only turning that long? Is there a way to check if its siezed without pulling it and taking it apart?

What should I do next?

thanks in advance

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Pull all six spark plugs out. See if you've got liquid in any of the bores - coolant, oil or fuel. You may have a leak of some sort that has filled one cylinder with liquid and now it's fluid-locked.

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Pull all six spark plugs out. See if you've got liquid in any of the bores - coolant, oil or fuel. You may have a leak of some sort that has filled one cylinder with liquid and now it's fluid-locked.

I did pull the plugs to try to turn the engine, found fod in the #6 cylinder. Looks like somehow one of the valve contacted the spark plug and smashed the tip and broke at least a piece of it off. Def, have to pull the engine again and disassemble to see where the problem is.

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I did pull the plugs to try to turn the engine, found fod in the #6 cylinder. Looks like somehow one of the valve contacted the spark plug and smashed the tip and broke at least a piece of it off. Def, have to pull the engine again and disassemble to see where the problem is.

Sorry, but what is "fod in the #6 cylinder"??

Regards, Jack

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Thank you for that!! Once again I have learnt something new today. I trust the "fod" has caused minimal damage and you can repair it and get on with starting the rebuilt engine.

I am contemplating engine and transmission removal and rebuild at the moment. Of course the biggest concern is the money that keeps draining into my car!!

However, I am "refreshing" the car and every step leads me to considering more things that maybe I should do whilst I am waiting to complete the other jobs. It seems an open ended "plan" that keeps developing as I go along.

Several years ago I completed a ground up restoration of a 1952 Chevrolet which was my fathers car. That turned out to be a big job, and I think I am trying to avoid that with the Fairlady 240Z!!

The Chevrolet has now been in the family more than 54 years.

Regards, Jack

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just looked at it again, and the valve definitely has to be bent. I can see it right next to the spark plug hole, and it should be on the other side of the engine. After assembly, I turned the whole thing a few revolutions via a wrench on the crankshaft, so there shouldn't have been interference.

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