I jus bought a set of the MSA Bushings and having the same issues,

how long do you boiling them and at what temperture?

I already got the old ones with no prob but the ends of the new ones don't touch each other when I slipped them on.

Is that a problem or can I just simply Torque / Squish them down to shape

by tightning the clamps down at 25lbs?

once they're on there, you'll prob have about 1/2" between the 2 ends. you will have to torque them down to get them to squish.

oh, and it feels MUCH nicer with those bushings in there. SOLID feel.

once they're on there, you'll prob have about 1/2" between the 2 ends. you will have to torque them down to get them to squish.

oh, and it feels MUCH nicer with those bushings in there. SOLID feel.

Thyanx I'll get right on it

I don't think my buddies mom would of like us using her cooking pot to make

"Rack Bushings"

haha, ya i used my grandmother's pot to boil mine

Ya mine didn't seat properly till I torqued them in - then perfection. The coupler seemed to be a matter of jiggery/pokery but was possible with the rack in place (nipped alot of skin off my fingers though).

End result was dramatic - I thought I had something wrong with the rack befor I did the bushings - when finished it was like a new car. Solid road feel, that was 7000 miles ago, still great.

WOO HOOO !

Rack Bushings installed :laugh:

Ruby's still sitting though :tapemouth

~Z~

I replaced mine yesterday. I had the same problem. They should be directional, one side is higher than other. I started on the passenger side. After seeing the huge gap, I unbolted the drivers side. After flipping over and around, I decided to go with what looked to best fit top bracket. After I tighten everything theres still a gap,,but not almost an inch.

As for the steering coupler,,it is for many years of models. You have to change the metal sleeves to different holes depending on your model. I have a seventy- three. At first I thought it was a wrong coupling. Then after a little exaimanation, it was obvious to rotate the sleeves around to next holes. It was very easy compared to the rack bushings.

Now that I've completely changed out all bushings for whole car,,new tires, new struts,,,,things have vastly improved. However I still have a vibrating steering wheel. Is it just because it is 35 year old technology,, or is there still a problem? Did I overtighten the steering coupler, and rack bushings. My spaces on the rack bushings ended up on top side. Where's did you fellas?

wheels balanced?

if it vibrates when slowing down, it could be bad tie rod ends or warped rotors.

Still got Vibrartions on mine even after having alignment done because right

front tread is seperating, drifts to the right.

Other than that my steering is way more responsive but a little harder to turn now ~_^

That seperating thread is a killer on steering wheel vibration...and it seems it only happens often enough that you totally forget about that being a possible solution to the problem! That's why I like Les Schwab up in NW USA because they do free balancing/rotations as long as you buy your tires there. They will also resipe the tires if it's ever needed again for free--if you originally had them siped. I very much recommend siping--it seemed to help quite a bit in the rain helping me grip the slick road better.

Another thing to consider after all suspension has been gone through, steering rack stuff, tires/wheels balance/seperating, brakes, alignment, is that if you've ever had a front end wreck, that could also factor in. My first Z that I had had a heavy front end wreck (and it was repaired very nice on the outside when I bought it)...but they could never repair the unibody back to original, kinda like a scar on a human. That's always a possible, a bad one at that.

I had the same problem with the gap on the rack bushings. Mine was not an inch and was only on one side. I might go back and do the boiling trick to see if I can close the gap. My bushing kit is Prothane from Black Dragon so it isn't just the MSA kits with the gap problem.