an alternative to boiling is to soap up the rubber part, or spray with hairspray so it goes in real easy. The hairspray, once dry, also locks it in place, so to speak.

I hate to dig up such an old thread (I can already hear the collective groan of readers everywhere!), but I figured this was the best place to discuss my issue rather than start a new thread.

I upgraded to poly bushings after I replaced my ball joints and outer tie rod ends, and when I installed them I prepped them in hot water first (as discussed here). I also added some multi-purpose chassis grease to get them into place correctly. They went in fine, and the gap where they were cut closed easily.

However, now the steering actually feels slightly loose! Having my girlfriend turn the steering wheel while in the garage, I can see the steering rack actually moving back and forth in the mounts slightly, maybe several mm. This is apparent when I drive because there is a slight floaty feel in the steering, and I think this movement of the rack allows the front end to wander with the road more than usual when driving straight.

Could this be because of the grease? How much movement should I expect with poly bushings?

Edited October 5, 201014 yr by Inf

Not much - you've done something wrong. Something not torqued down maybe?

You may have the wrong bushings. There is a different spacing between the ears on the 280 rack (on one side only), requiring a wider bushing to fill the space. The ES kit for 280 and 240 are different only in this one bushing if I recall correctly. If you use the 240 rack bushing on a 280 rack, you get room for movement.

Ask me how I know. I did the bushing replacement several years ago as I also changed the rack. I then went for a drive. Made a left turn, and when my wheel returned to "center" it stayed about 10 deg left of center. Car is going striaght! Make a right turn, now the wheel sits 10deg right of center. Car still going straight. Rack was shifting with each turn. Had to go through the grief again with the right bushing. Turns out the rack I swapped was for a 280.

Edited October 5, 201014 yr by zKars

I'm certain I torqued everything down to factory specs, I'm pretty religious with the torque wrench.

I don't think my problem is nearly as severe as what you're describing zKars.

I can't say if I have a real 240 rack or if a PO had swapped it out for a 280 rack.

Should the mounts on the crossmember be the same for the 240 and 280 (assuming someone swapped my rack...)? If so I could just get the 280 bushings, I suppose.

I'll get down and take some measurements as soon as I can, the mosquitoes are out in full force around these parts, drives me crazy in the garage.