lighting probs (searched around, wanna be more specific)

[strangethursday]

While driving my car the other night (73 240) the connector for the ignition wire coming off the solenoid disconnected (it's in bad shape). Anyway, the car died, I found the prob, reconnected it & it started back up fine. My problem now is the lights went all wierd. 1st all exterior lights worked & all but the temp/oil gauge inside. I turned the lights off then on again & it started working again. Then within a matter of minutes ALL exterior lighting went out. Also all of the gauges except the speedo & volt/fuel are now out. The T/S & hazzards also. What is goin on? I thought it might be the combo switch & went to swap it with another I have but, it ended up being the earlier 1 so I can't use it without mods ( my wipers only work on 2 settings anyway so I might just end up trying it). In my manual it says to test it by bypassing the switch, can some1 link me to a 73 combo switch wiring color diagram?

Thanks

[ezzzzzzz]

I think you should start back at the solenoid. Sounds like your problems stem from there. Disconnect the neg of the battery. Remove, clean, tighten, replace bad connector(s), etc. and put it all back together. While there also check the battery cables and grounds for clean tight connections. Reconnect the neg of the battery and see if things quiet down.

[Zs-ondabrain]

the first thing I'm gonna suggest is

1) Start checking all of your grounds. It's one of the most missed areas when people start having electrical issues.

2) I Am the person that does the switch service for the 240Z's. I am also the one that makes the headlight and parking light upgrade harness's. These harness's take away the load problems that usually cause the problems you're experiencing right now. They lower the amperage thru the fusebox and combo switch by over 98% the 2 of them together (HLH and PLH) are $165. The switch service is only $40 and when combined with the 2 harness's, will last for about another 50+ years.

3) the contacts in your switches with were designed to last 15 to 20 Years, it's been 33+ YEARS. After lowering the load down to 0.30 amps, dwon from as much as 20 amps, those contacts will last for a lifetime.

If you order all 3 items (HLH, PLH and the switch service) the total would be $205. I'll knock it down to an even $200 and cover the shipping to you. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com or P.M. me and I'll give you all the shipping and payment details. It's up to you.

Let me know,

Dave.

[strangethursday]

Forgot to mention the gauges that still work & the parking lights like to come on with the ignition now regaurdless of the possition of the combo switch

[strangethursday]

I poked around with a test light yesterday & found some strange $^!# goin on. With the combo switch, hazard & ignition off, the flasher still have power on both poles (1 pole will flash the test light). At the fuse box with the combo on, all the fuses for the lights have power. The heavy white/red & the heavy red wires that come in on top of the combo always have power (regaurdless if the ignition is on or not) have power which I think is normal. However, no wires on the bottom of the combo do. I'm thinking the hazard switch is done & probably the combo too. I'm gonna try the hazard 1st tho. BTW I found the fiberoptic lighting for the hazard switch & lighter pretty interesting. I've never seen that on a car b4! Haha

[strangethursday]

I pulled out the hazard switch & opened it up. The contacts had bearing grase on them so I cleaned them up. Didnt work. From the looks of it, the switches cannot just stop working right? the wires & connectors look good. as do the switches themselves. possibly a relay? the flasher wouldnt cause everything thats happening right?

[strangethursday]

Is this the right order?

power source > combo > hazard switch > fuse box > relay > lights?

[strangethursday]

I checked power everywhere & finally reached the headlight sockets. There's power there. I went to the rear lights & 3 of the dual filiment bulbs were exploded. The sockets themselves no longer have power tho. I only found 1 ground at the front so far. I also found that the fuse for the tail lights was a 30a instead of a 20a so I switched that out. What should I do?

[DeesZ]

"Exploded" bulbs? Sounds like a very nasty voltage surge. That happened to me a while back. Cause was a faulty voltage reg. It literally exploded every bulb that was on at the time of the incident. Prior to this problem what has your amp meter been doing.... any funny bouncing around?

[Ramses]

Wow, I am sure glad that I replaced or repaired my entire wiring harnesses while she was completely pulled apart. Eventually I will be using zonthebrain's upgrades. After 35 years of life, I would recommend checking every connection and switch. If not taken care of properly, they have a tendency to go out, corrode, or get cut and or butchered by the PO.

Do you have a Factory Service Manual. The one that I purchased, was a copy of a copy, but it has been invaluable in my restoration \ refresh. The Hayes and Chiltons repair manuals suck and lack sufficient detail to do any major type of repair.

Good luck.

[strangethursday]

I didn't notice the amps when it happened. I don't have a fsm & can't buy 1 (or really anything for that matter) until my lights are fixed. I can't get to my 2nd job anymore so basically the only way I'm eating right now is the food at my 1st job.

To top it off, this morning while trying to get to work, the wiring for the fuel pump started acting up & blew 2 fuses. Luckily I got a ride. Everytime something electrical goes wrong & I track it down, it's either an added on circuit or a moddified 1.

Any1 in rancho cucamonga? I'm officially puttin a hit out on the PO! Haha

[strangethursday]

I plan to take the fuel pump off whatever circuit it's wired into & use a switch instead. I have a question tho. The electric pump that's been installed looks stock. There appear to be 3 wires. 1 on top which has never been connected to anything & 2 around the center of the body. 1 that looks like it grounds to the body of the pump & the power supply (which is hooked up of course). Any idea what the top wire is & what I should do with it?