removing the dash is impossible

[mrcow]

I have a '73 240z with A/C and the previous owner hacked up the wiring to install a sound system, CB, and who knows what else. I am trying to remove the dash and reviewed EScanlon's article, the haynes manual, and FSM before starting. Well now i am stuck.

My biggest problem right now is that i cannot get to the body and engine wiring connectors. On the passenger side, squeezed behind the dash, firewall, and evaporator are at least three connectors i cannot get too. One is green, one is blue, and one is white. Is there some secret to disconnect these things? I can touch it with a finger but no way can i grip it.

I don't know how anyone could get the dash out in 20-30 mins.

[MikeW]

That's strange; I don't recall having any trouble with getting to connectors on my '72 and it had the remnants of dealer-installed A/C when I removed the dash. Perhaps the factory A/C is a lot more obtrusive. Can you post some pictures showing what you're up against?

[BD240Z]

I don't know how anyone could get the dash out in 20-30 mins.

I agree with you there.

Consider removing additional components to get at the connections you're talking about. When I removed my dash, I removed the fan motor, the glove box and the fresh air vent. With all that out of the way, all of my wiring harness connections were accessible.

Good luck with your car.

Bruce

[EScanlon]

If you can get your fingers up to the connectors, see if you can trace the wiring harness back to a pair of the metal finger grips that wrap around the harness to hold it up and out of the way. The metal finger grips are plastic covered and are literally bent around the harness.

You need to lift and bend them out of the way and the harness will come down off the bottom of the cowl bucket.

If you haven't moved any of the A/C equipment for fear of venting the freon, that's understandeable, but you should still be able to remove the dash as that isn't connected to it.

Also look at the corner between the firewall and the kick panel to see more of those little finger grips holding the wiring harness to the rear of the car.

HTH

E

[mrcow]

well i got it out. I tried to remove the evaporator before i did the first post and it didnt move even with all the bolts out. While i was trying to squeeze my hand / pliers up there to grab the connectors the plastic evaporator shell cracked and then i could easily shift it out of the way. So the dash is out now. I was going to take pictures to post in the forum but i realize i left my camera at the apartment.

Now its time to figure out why so many wires have been spliced.

While my dash is out, are there any components i should replace? I plan on inspecting the heater core, changing the water control valve and heater hoses. I am thinking about replacing all the light bulbs. In theory, everything electrical worked before i removed the dash but who knows if it any of it will still work once i put the dash back in. ha ha.

thanks for the help so far. this is a great forum.

[MikeW]

I hope you labeled everything. If not do it now while things are still fresh in your mind. I'd also consider cleaning everything that has 30+ years of dust and grime such as everything related to the fresh air system like the ducts and blower and housing.

[BD240Z]

While my dash is out, are there any components i should replace? I plan on inspecting the heater core, changing the water control valve and heater hoses. I am thinking about replacing all the light bulbs. In theory, everything electrical worked before i removed the dash but who knows if it any of it will still work once i put the dash back in. ha ha.

That's a pretty good list. Does your "inspection" of the heater core involve a pressure test? If the core is old you might consider getting a new one for around $100. Replace the foam pads on the heater control doors/flaps, address any rust and possibly paint the whole unit.

Also, with the dash out you can now easily remove all the gages to clean and polish the lenses making them crystal clear again.

Bruce

[mrcow]

Well i now have my camera handy. Its a bad angle but you can see in the last picture what i am talking about. the gap between the evaporator, passenger relays, and the side of the car is tiny. The blue, green, white, and black connectors where physically squeezed between the evaporator and some of the relay plugs. Then i have two pics attached that show my now broken evaporator casing.

then the first two pics are for the "whats did the previous owner wire game?"

the first pic is the back of the tach. it hasnt worked since i bought the car and had a green and grey wire coming off of the yellow square that went no where. I guess I might need a replacement tach.

the second pic is of a cable that was hanging down from the steering column. it is spliced into the black single plug connector from the center console.

[Ramses]

mrcow,

When I removed my dash, for the 1st time of about 10, I found that the evaporator coil was rusted completely through. I ended up tossing it. I also labeled all the connectors that you are talking about under the passenger side, because if I had not then it would of been nearly impossible to tell which set of wires connected to which relay. I basically had to "merge" six wiring harnesses together to make three. It SUCKED. The previous owners of my '73 butchered all three harness to install several stupid items and to make it go. The ignition switch, the blower motor, the fuse box, temp sensing switch, rear speaker, electric antenna, distributor, voltage reg, horn, and about 10 other connectors were cut and twisted together or somehow made to work. It took me about 2 months to get it back together the way it is supposed to be.

The only advise that I can give is be patient, purchase several harnesses and try unravelling them to see how they are put together. Then replace or repair the butchered segments.

Good luck