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So Where Do I Start?


TimNC

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So I've decided to start doing some serious work on my 73 240Z, but I'm slightly overwhelmed at where to start with it.

In my intro thread I list the car's background and what's been done so far:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25801

I would like some opinions on what should be done in what order, so here's my list of things that need to be done:

  1. Carbs are running rich, maybe leaking. I can smell gas but I can't see any leaking, but it's definantly fouling the plugs. Should I try to rebuild it myself or should I just eat the $500+ and get a ztherapy set? I have round tops.
  2. All the weatherstripping needs to be replaces. When it rains it leaks water on the lower edges of the windshield. I don't know if I should do this before I ....
  3. Paint the car. It's still the original 73 green metallic, and it's faded and looks horrible. I can't decided if I want to paint it original or since it's already faded a lot, get it pained the olive green that the new mustangs are sporting.
  4. New carpet. I got the car with no carpet. The original owner said that through a rusted spot in the floor and being stored, ants had moved in to the carpet and it was removed.
  5. Seat covers. Maybe new foam also.
  6. New wheels. Trying to find originals. This is probably least important.
  7. Air conditioning. The car originally had air conditioning but the previous owner removed the compressor. I got a working compressor off ebay, but it looks like all the previous hoses were cut. Not sure on how to put it in or if I need a professional to do it for me.
  8. Rust. I have two rust spots, one very bad and one minor. The very bad is in the passenger door towards the bottom where there is a hole the size of a quarter. The other is beginning rust above the exhaust, but the metal is still solid. The bumper needs some rust repair also.

So..... how should I tackle these and in what order?

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I would go about it in this order:

8. Absolutely fix rust first-correctly. When you remove the carpet kit and original weather stripping, make sure there isn't a problem underneath (floorpans under the tar, door sills under the vinyl, etc).

1. IF you have the $$$ ZTherapy is considered the best. I have rebuilt/cleaned mine, which helped a TON, but I think I can get better if I had the duckets.

3. Paint the car AFTER you get it running, and rust free (you will not appreciate the dimples on the thin fenders after the new paint), a good paint job is appropriate IMHO.

2. Then reassemble.

4. More reassembly.

5. See number 2.

6. Original steelies? Those are becoming tough to find. Not to mention the cost of the "D" hubcaps in good condition. Period correct aftermarket wheels are still available and reasonable priced. PM me, I have a couple styles.

Well, that's the way I would do it if I had the cash. And the time. And maybe if I was single again....

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Tim,

Just a few thoughts:

1. Rust gets worse over time, so needs high priority. Also obviously needs to be fixed before you paint.

2. You'll get a neater appearance putting new weatherstripping on after painting thay by trying to mask around it.

3. Running rich is usually caused by things you can fix with a DIY rebuild. It's definitely worth a try. If you're new to SU's we can get together, I'm in Hickory and have been tuning & maintaining my own roundtops since '71. The first thing to do is find out exactly which version you have. There's a good description on the ztherapy web site.

4. Adding A/C to an early Z causes severe overheating problems in traffic. Search forums here & on other sites. You'll find many examples of the problem and solutions. All are more or less expensive and some sure to raise under hood temperatures, which you don't want to do in an early Z with the high vapor pressure of modern gas.

5. Your old A/C is an R-12 system. R-12 is very expensive & hard to get these days because it's an ozone destroyer, it's been replaced by R-134a. Parts for R-12 systems are getting even harder to find than R-12. If a conversion kit available a pro may be able switch it to 134a. Make sure you can (and want to) restore it as is or do the conversion before spending any more money on it.

6. Seats probably need new foam after 34 years. Mine do, badly, on a car that's been kept in a garage most of its life.

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Having recently redone my Z , almost completely disassembling it. I really recommend that you first evaluate the engine and do all the mechanical first. Brakes , suspension all of it. Make it a safe car to drive, and the engine is sound. Then address the body, and the rust issues. The rust is a high priority that must be dealt with properly , the body work next and then paint . Interior goes in after paint, but depending on funds available it can wait. Seals and gaskets should be the last. Having to do suspension after the paint is finished is more difficult because just the nature of the work it is so easy to damage the finish. Gary:rambo:

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My take.

1a) Really go over the car for rust-get her on stands and check the rails, floor pan, and suspension mounting points-sounds like you have driven her some, make sure that won't put you some where you don't want to go...Hopefully DaveN can loan you a second pair of eyes at the same time he gets a dose of your carb cologne!

1b) Take and post pictures

2) Schedule some time with DaveN, Before getting together, Clean the engine, have the answers to his questions, proper tools, shop towels, carb cleaner, a full carb kit, and the properly prepared beveredges of his choice handy! One of my fisrt automotive lessons was "The more fun and convenient helping is, the more help you get!"

2b) Take and post pictures

3) If there is rust in the structural areas fix it or have it fixed first

3b) Take and post pictures

4) Deal with the mechanicals(other than the carbs) to make the car safe.

4b) Take and post pictures

5)Install the weather strips.

5b) Take and post pictures

6)Install AC

6b) Take and post pictures

7) Prep and paint!

7b) Take and post pictures

8) Drive

8b) Take and post pictures!

Will

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