Hey guys and gals. I'm going to plunge into the unknown and replace brakes, bearings and bushings left to right front to back. It feels like a big job, but after everything else I've done so far, what the hell! right? I've seen some write ups on the rear wheel bearings and I'm a little nervous or am I just being paranoid?

Any input would be helpful. Dan

Yes, you have every reason to be paranoid.

When I did my rears the LHS axle popped out, the RHS, well what can I say, I'm still seeing physio for "fixing" after 6 months. This is one job I'd gladly pay someone else to do.

Hey guys and gals. I'm going to plunge into the unknown and replace brakes, bearings and bushings left to right front to back. It feels like a big job, but after everything else I've done so far, what the hell! right? I've seen some write ups on the rear wheel bearings and I'm a little nervous or am I just being paranoid?

Any input would be helpful. Dan

Dan , I was like you with the rear Axel bearings. I didn't have any problem really. You will need a torque wrench though that goes up to 200+ft lbs. To reassemble. I suggest that you have the How to Restore your DATSUN Z-CAR book By Wick Humble its a Fisher Book. I have a spindle pin puller that makes this a simple job. Just DON'T hammer on the ends of the pins. If you do, the puller will not help. It is free to loan just pay the shipping . The book I mentioned covers the removal of the pins, stub axles and bearings . Are you planning on replacing the struts also. Gary

No I'm not planning on doing struts. Car rides nice and tight with no bouncies. My wife says she'd rather ride in my truck (90 F-150 4X4) than in my Z. Doesn't hurt my feelings any. The part about it that makes me nervous is getting the peened nuts off the axle stubs. Once I get those off the rest will come apart either quietly or by force. Thanks for the offer with tool, but my guitarist has a buttload specialty tools and will probably do at his place. I just don't want to be heating on the housing for an hour just to get th bearings to let go. Thanks for the replies guys I love this site! Dan

Secret for the peened nuts on the stub shafts is to use a dremel and very carefully grind away the peened area without damaging threads on shaft. Hopefully you purchased the superceded p/n which is a lock nut to replace them.

Proper way to remove and install the bearing races on the stub shaft is to use a hydraulic press with the appropriate adapters. Heat and big hammers may do more damage than you can afford to live with.

thanks for the info Ron, you would have that p/n would you ?

I just spun the nut off with a socket and a impact wrench. Not a big deal. Just use a new nut. mine were only peened enough to keep them from coming loose. You will need a torque wrench that goes up to 200+ ft lbs. I hope you have success with the spindle pins. Boat load or not.

The 280zx nuts for the rear hub/bearings are not peened and are the same as the 240/260/280z. So make fitting easier (as don't have to peen them), as well as making removal easier if need be at a later date. A slight point also, is the 280zx nut is slightly bigger in terms of surface area against the washer, so may help spread the tightening torque better. (I don't have a part no. for the 280zx nuts handy, sorry).

When I replaced my rear bearings, I let my local machine shop deal with all of this. Let them have the hassle.

Hpe that helps

Ian

Here's the P/N for the nuts...#43262-W1200 Should be able to get them from your local Nissan dealership...should be about $4.xx each. Might want to get an extra set while you still can...if you know what I mean...

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