Brakes, bearings and bushings

[Rockr69]

Hey guys and gals. I'm going to plunge into the unknown and replace brakes, bearings and bushings left to right front to back. It feels like a big job, but after everything else I've done so far, what the hell! right? I've seen some write ups on the rear wheel bearings and I'm a little nervous or am I just being paranoid?

Any input would be helpful. Dan

[Zedrally]

Yes, you have every reason to be paranoid.

When I did my rears the LHS axle popped out, the RHS, well what can I say, I'm still seeing physio for "fixing" after 6 months. This is one job I'd gladly pay someone else to do.

[beandip]

Hey guys and gals. I'm going to plunge into the unknown and replace brakes, bearings and bushings left to right front to back. It feels like a big job, but after everything else I've done so far, what the hell! right? I've seen some write ups on the rear wheel bearings and I'm a little nervous or am I just being paranoid?

Any input would be helpful. Dan

Dan , I was like you with the rear Axel bearings. I didn't have any problem really. You will need a torque wrench though that goes up to 200+ft lbs. To reassemble. I suggest that you have the How to Restore your DATSUN Z-CAR book By Wick Humble its a Fisher Book. I have a spindle pin puller that makes this a simple job. Just DON'T hammer on the ends of the pins. If you do, the puller will not help. It is free to loan just pay the shipping . The book I mentioned covers the removal of the pins, stub axles and bearings . Are you planning on replacing the struts also. Gary

[Rockr69]

No I'm not planning on doing struts. Car rides nice and tight with no bouncies. My wife says she'd rather ride in my truck (90 F-150 4X4) than in my Z. Doesn't hurt my feelings any. The part about it that makes me nervous is getting the peened nuts off the axle stubs. Once I get those off the rest will come apart either quietly or by force. Thanks for the offer with tool, but my guitarist has a buttload specialty tools and will probably do at his place. I just don't want to be heating on the housing for an hour just to get th bearings to let go. Thanks for the replies guys I love this site! Dan

[kinfish]

Secret for the peened nuts on the stub shafts is to use a dremel and very carefully grind away the peened area without damaging threads on shaft. Hopefully you purchased the superceded p/n which is a lock nut to replace them.

Proper way to remove and install the bearing races on the stub shaft is to use a hydraulic press with the appropriate adapters. Heat and big hammers may do more damage than you can afford to live with.

[Rockr69]

thanks for the info Ron, you would have that p/n would you ?

[beandip]

I just spun the nut off with a socket and a impact wrench. Not a big deal. Just use a new nut. mine were only peened enough to keep them from coming loose. You will need a torque wrench that goes up to 200+ ft lbs. I hope you have success with the spindle pins. Boat load or not.

[RIP260Z]

The 280zx nuts for the rear hub/bearings are not peened and are the same as the 240/260/280z. So make fitting easier (as don't have to peen them), as well as making removal easier if need be at a later date. A slight point also, is the 280zx nut is slightly bigger in terms of surface area against the washer, so may help spread the tightening torque better. (I don't have a part no. for the 280zx nuts handy, sorry).

When I replaced my rear bearings, I let my local machine shop deal with all of this. Let them have the hassle.

Hpe that helps

Ian

[webdawg1]

Here's the P/N for the nuts...#43262-W1200 Should be able to get them from your local Nissan dealership...should be about $4.xx each. Might want to get an extra set while you still can...if you know what I mean...

webdawg1