Well,

Since I'm still having problems with overheating I took a big leap today and decided to order a new 3 row radiator, oem thermostat, hoses, and a 14" electric fan with sensor which brings up a whole new set of issues....

Should I keep the A/C or pull it out of the car. I can hear the compressor kick in, but of course it needs a charge. Since I bought the car last fall I have never charged the a/c so I'm not 100% sure that it works. Since I'm going to be replacing all the above mentioned items should I just go ahead and remove the a/c system or leave it alone.

If I get the system charged, do they even cool the cabin enough anyway? My car is just a weekend driver and I don't think I would ever use the air anyway. Is it any big deal to remove the system?

Here are a few pictures of the unit...(I think) I'm sure it's an aftermarket system so is there any value to leaving it in or out.

Thanks for any input.

Randy

Well, I guess it really all depends on the days and temperatrue you drive your car. If you drive it in really hot warm summer days, from my experience, these cars get really really toasty hot especially with mine atleaste being with black interior. If you've driven it in some real hot temperatures and feels comfortable enough like it is, then you might just be fine with taking it all out of the car.

Remember if you do have the a/c recharged, you will need to buy a new reciever/dryer as that is a crucial part to replace every three years or so to prevent corrosion and moisture in the a/c system, not to mention the the desiccant pellets inside will break down and clog the expansion valve which can damage your compressor, not good. They usually run about $60.00.

I removed my old R12 A/C system and will most likely opt for a newer R134 unit when the time comes.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=240Z-AC

If you are not going to have it in working order , I would pull it. I got rid of mine first thing when I bought my '73 . I don't live in the climate you do. From what I have recently heard , it is becoming hard to find places that will charge the old freon systems . Plus when you do they charge an arm and a leg. If you were thinking of reworking the system to the new coolant and using it , costly from what I hear, then this is another story. Gary

MSA makes a kit to convert the old York compressor based systems to a more modern, more efficient Sanden rotary compressor. With that, it's really not a bad system. 76Datsun280z is refering to a factory system which yours is not. Obviously he got his advice from someone who repairs ac for a living. The drier on your car (mally02) is a generic drier and costs less than 25 bucks if you know where to get them. I wouldn't necessarily replace them every three years but I would replace it when installing a new compressor in a system that hasn't been working for a while. My advice would be, run a flush through the system, change to the compressor I mentioned, along with a new rec/drier and charge it with Freeze12 or one of the non hydrocarbon R12 replacements. R134a runs at too high a pressure for my liking. The modern systems that are factory built and installed to work with R134a are fine with their climate control, etc., but I wouldn't retrofit a R12 sytem to R134a nor would I be too interested in an aftermarket bolt on system that uses it. These are just my opinions but they are based on almost twenty years of expericence with ac both home and auto.

Thanks for the info,

If I do pull the a/c is it as simple as just unbolting everything? Will there be holes to fill, etc.

Looks like you have one of the original Dealer Installed systems.. note the old York piston type compressor. Those systems won't cool the car and by todays standards for A/C they are junk.

The R134a system that MSA offers - is just as bad. Yes - it has a better, smoother compressor that takes less hp to run - but the system still has to suck air through the evaporator - then blow it through the heater/fresh air vent system.

The only A/C system I've found that will actually cool a 240-Z, is the Vintage Air Super Cooler III. It replaces the old heater core, with a single unit that combines the A/C evaporator coils with a new heater coil. The system then blows cabin air through the heater/AC evaporator... and hooks up to the existing dash outlets and defroster outlets. The new Vintage Air system is designed to run on 134a... so it has smaller tubes and more of them in both the condenser (a multi-flow type) and the evaporator. If there is a problem with it - it is that the new Vintage Air system does NOT use the old heater/vent control levers...

FWIW,

Carl B.

When I removed my system (nearly identical to your pics), there were two holes left in the firewall. I wasn't planning on EVER reusing my system (it was SHOT) so I cut the lines - don't worry enviro-nazis, there was no pressure. I got rid of about 30 pounds of dead weight to boot!

I had to cut the very small diameter copper tubing that ran over the trans tunnel under the dash between the fan switch and the evaporator. I couldn't get the thing out of the car without doing that.

.....The only A/C system I've found that will actually cool a 240-Z, is the Vintage Air Super Cooler III....

I forgot about that system. I installed one in my brother-in-law's custom 58 Chevy wagon a couple years back. It's a 'designed for R134a' system. Cools that big car very well, vent temps below 30 deg. But back to the the factory installed system. Though it's not the most efficient design, I've done a couple of Z's for my friend's shop using the old dealer installed system, a better condenser, the Sanden compressor, and Honda blower motor and the results are more than satisfactory. Especially when compared to the York system as it was installed. The York system would only achieve 38-39 degree vent temps but with upgrades I've got the center vents down to as low as 27 degrees which is, like I said, more than sastisfactory.

Mine is now occupying a corner in the garage on the floor. It was in the way when I went to do just about anything on the car, so I got it out of the way. None that I ever drove back in the day had ac, and I really didn't want it on the one I bought. As for the car now, I have yet to remove the hose connections through the firewall. I will attack that when the spirit moves me to get under and into that part of the passenger compartment. I simply capped off the hoses and secured them out of the way for the time being.

Removing that stuff got a measurable amount of weight out of that car, and uncomplicated many simple little jobs. I do not suspect that it will ever go back in.

O.K. I have a really rookie question....

What happens after you remove the compressor in terms of the fan belt?

I want to start this weekend, but didn't know how removing the system alters the belt....am I making any sense.

Thanks,

This weather that we live in, if you have the money I would sure as hell get it fixed.

Driving around with all your windows open going 60+ mph and still drenched in sweat is not cool. :mad:

Plus if you end up getting stuck in traffic, you might as well shoot yourself.