Everything I have read says the DCOE's don't like heat.

So I must have measured a thousand different things, like carbs to brake lines,and brake booster to rear carb, carbs to top of headers.

But..somehow I managed to take the filter off my breather pipe,to do the measuring ;so now I need to cut the breather down and to locate the filter closer to the block.

Good Idea / Bad Idea?

In addition to my Z, I have a Jensen Healey with a pair of zenith Strombergs, they leak sort of spontaniously, and a surprising volume.

I don't know if Webers have any annoying habits that can get ya killed so..

I designed the shield to slope down toward the radiator and away from the carbs and into a little trough which would guide any stray gasoline out between rad and a/c compressor.

Enviromental disaster I know, but better than being blowed up!

The Webers run cool now ,if I could only figure what I'm doing wrong in tuning ....

Bloxman

Hey Blox,

with the engine running, leaking fuel draining between the radiator and the ac compressor will be dumped right into your cooling fan, slapping it into a very fine mist and blowing it all over your dizzy and exhaust manifold!

Put a lip on the end and a nipple for a hose and route the drainage under the car out of any ambient airstreams...

Will

Don't forget the insulators between carbs and manifold. They are for heat and vibration dampening. As for tuning a wideband O2 gauge and sensor like an AEM UEGO Gauge http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AVM%2D30%2D4100&N=700+308464+115&autoview=sku works wonders to pinpointing your tuning needs.

Everything I have read says the DCOE's don't like heat.

If underhood heat is a problem for the carb.'s - - I would not have used a distribution block - that routes fuel to the individual carb.'s with no return. The fuel in the lines from the distrubution block, as well as the fuel in the floats has a good chance of picking up a lot of heat.

I would have used a fuel pressure regulator - then pumped fuel to the rear carb and on through it - to the center and on through it, then to to front carb and through it to a return line. This effectively keeps the fuel in the lines and going to the carb.'s cooler.

FWIW,

Carl B.

I'm happier than a fat kid in a candy shop!!! I just picked up a triple set of 40 DCOE Webers on a Cannon Manifold With Linkage for only $500!!!

And while I'm getting ready for delivery, I found this for any and all who are interested.

http://www.racetep.com/webtechpage.html

All of Webers technical info is all this page. A MUST READ for all triple newbies.

Dave.

I hooked my triple webers directly from the mechanical fuel pump(which is supplied by the original electric pump on my 73). Originally I installed the pressure regulator between the mechanical pump and the carbs, but then I tried eliminating the regulator and hooked into the original fuel return line, and didn't have any problems supplying enough fuel to the carbs(although I don't have a cam, so possibly if I had a high performance cam I might have needed more pressure than the gas return line alone would allow). I also insulated all the fuel lines around the engine compartment and fabricated a large heat shield. Definitely no vaporization problems. Victor.

ps I was able to jet the webers enough to make them serviceable, but never could get them to run lean enough. Just too much carb for my un-modified low performance engine. Switched back to stock(actually roundtops) carbs with no performance loss.