NurseLaura Posted May 31, 2007 Share #1 Posted May 31, 2007 Hello all!:cheeky: I really need a gas tank for my 1983 280zx. The old one is off the car and dumped, rinsed and dried... but I'm afraid to put it back on as is. Rust, pinholes, integrity, etc. Anyone know of a place here in Orlando that cleans and coats tanks, or anyplace that I can buy an aftermarket one for this model? Thanks in advance!:nervous: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webdawg1 Posted May 31, 2007 Share #2 Posted May 31, 2007 You can always send it off to these guys. They do excellent work...Moyer fuel tank renu at the following url: http://www.gas-tank.com/Unless you get lucky just about any tank you find at a pick-and-pull will probably be in the same condition OR worse than your tank...Let us know which way you decide to run with this...webdawg1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor Laury Posted May 31, 2007 Share #3 Posted May 31, 2007 I've got nothing but good things to say about tank renu. You'll have a good tank forever afterwards. follow their shipping instructions and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted May 31, 2007 Share #4 Posted May 31, 2007 Victor, can you give a ballpark cost for this? I know they say they'll call you with an estimate once they receive your tank and inspect it but if it's going to be $1000 or more I wouldn't want to even send it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280~Master Posted May 31, 2007 Share #5 Posted May 31, 2007 POR 15 is the only way to go. I have tried 2 different types of coatings and POR 15 is the best. Call the places above and I bet you find out that they use POR 15 for the inside of there tank restores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZ Posted May 31, 2007 Share #6 Posted May 31, 2007 You can do a search through past posts regarding gas tanks. Safety is the first concern when "playing" with your tank. I used RedKote to line my tank. The advantage of using RedKote is that you can remove it with MEK. Other tank sealers are more difficult to remove later. The Renu people are definitely the way to go if U have the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webdawg1 Posted May 31, 2007 Share #7 Posted May 31, 2007 Might also try MSA at the following url: http://www.zcarparts.comor call (800) 633-6331 and ask about item #11-3205 (for 79-83 model year fuel tank) and expect to pay around approx $500.00 in cold hard cash plus shipping charges...believe you would be money ahead by finding out what Moyer fuel tank renu will charge you to check it out/repair it...webdawg1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZ Posted May 31, 2007 Share #8 Posted May 31, 2007 BTW There is a radiator shop in orlando that did all of my sweating. (Lead soldering of vent tubes) They boil tanks and use RedKote. They are near Robinson and OBT. Not the best area of town but they are good.RedKote does a nice job of sealing pinholes too.C & M Radiator & Air ConditioningAddress:Unverified listing - - more info »Placement on map is approximate1228 W Robinson StOrlando, FL 32805(407) 422-6007 - Here's a quick video I made of some leftover RedKote. Its neat stuff.http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RedkoteTank_Liner.wmv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280~Master Posted June 1, 2007 Share #9 Posted June 1, 2007 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19514is a little write up I did on my Red-Kote tank liner. I am now into my second tank due to the fact that Red-Kote failed, I still ended up with rust in my inline filter between the tank and the electric fuel pump causing many problems. Spend the $60 and order the POR 15 http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1515/.f You will be happier off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NurseLaura Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share #10 Posted June 1, 2007 This is great stuff to chew on! JimmyZ - what is the process they use at a radiator shop to apply the lining? Do they spray it, or roll the tank around, or what? I know that the kits come with instructions, but I'm really scared of screwing it up... and then I have NO tank! Thanks to all you guys for the great advice... I'm still up in the air about it. And my tank is now in the back of the SUV until I figure out what to do. (Might improve the smell in the SUV ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZ Posted June 1, 2007 Share #11 Posted June 1, 2007 The aforementioned radiator shop does the usual boiling and acid treatment. When the metal is rust free they apply RedKote (From here on "RK") by sloshing. The directions permit the use of a thinner to allow better distribution. You still have to work fast because the stuff sets fast when exposed to air.. even thinned.If you were to use the radiator shop you could request they use Hirsh's tank etch (follow directions) prior to applying RK. This would be MUCH better. You would have to provide the Hirsch etch as I'm sure they would not order it. It works REALLY good. (The etch not the tank sealer) I don't care much for acid treating tanks as a primary means of rust removal. There is still a chance for rust to come back as 280~ said. Here's what I did for my tank... 1.Removed majority of varnish by allowing laquer thinner to set in tank for several hours. LT gets just about everything. (Varnish has to go as it can harbor explosive fumes)2.Built a water tank for submersing gas tank and did electrolysis for three days. (Washing soda and 12V battery charger. This process strips any paint, etc from the tank. It also did away with some but not all of the rust. Electrodes were used inside and out. (Electrodes can't touch tank of course) 3. Now that I was absolutely certain there were no fumes left in tank I cut an access hole for sandblasting. 3.5 Sent tank off to have some offending vent tubes resoldered. (One had leaked and one was loose)4. After inside of tank was sandblasted I sloshed OSPHO (phosphoric acid) in the tank to kill off any remaining rust.5. Sandblasted inside tank to remove OSPHO and anything that remained.6. Welded patch over hole cut for sandblasting.7. Dumped in Hirsh's tank etch. This is akin to using Zinc chromate primer on bare metal. It preps the metal for paint/covering.8. Waited a day then sloshed thinned RedKote. I just taped over the openings such as fuel sending unit. Used hand sandblaster to suck RK thru lines to prevent clogging. Sealing surfaces such as sending unti area were cleaned up using Acetone.9. Painted tank with Basecoat/clearcoat. 10. Allowed one week for RK to cure. This is much longer than they specify but I was in no hurry. Thinned RK can cure in a 12-48hrs. Better safe than sorry.I lookd into plating the inside of the tank, Hirsh, POR etc. Plating is not feasible according to a knowlegeable plater. (Unless you have factory grade equipment) Hirsh and POR camps have thrown so much indirect flak at each other I just said to hell with 'em. I got to see what happens to Hirsh's white sealer when it goes bad. I've also heard a few reports of POR going bad and dislodging like a garbage bag inside a tank. The Hirsh thing was due to chemical shortcomings. POR's problem was probably due to user error. POR's film is tough and adhesion is good. Try stripping it and you'll see that it comes off in big sheets though. I perceive that RK is not superior to POR except for the fact that if you screw up it is easy to undo. Screw up with POR and it is not easily undone. By "screwing up" I mean bad prepwork. This is my long-winded 2c and of course my opinion.Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZ Posted June 1, 2007 Share #12 Posted June 1, 2007 A few links which may/may not be needed. Here's a link to Hirsch's tank etch. I got 2 pints. http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=27&Product_ID=7&CATID=3 Got my RedKote from Bailey Motor Equipment out past Taft. They are nice people and will sell you a quart. Think it was $35.00 (If you want to DIY otherwise let the radiator shop get it) http://www.baileymotorequip.com/ Ben's Paint supply for Ospho... http://www.benspaintsupply.com/locations.html A quick synopsis of basic restoration/refreshing. Check out the rust section. http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html 3c now I'll stop posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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