Hey, I tried to set my timing the other day and I couldn't find the timing mark. So I stopped the eng and found 5(I think) tick marks on the lower pulley. One was more prominent than the rest so I painted that one. then proceded to set the timing with the engine running and the mark was still not visable. I checked the other side of the pulley with the timing light and there it was. Almost 180* off. Is the pulley able to be set on this way? My timing tab is on the left hand side of engine and the mark was on the right side. Please help me get my timing set! thanks!

the 180* is because for every two turns the crankshaft makes the camshaft and distributor make one turn

The timing reference on your crank pulley is only applicable to cylinder#1, at TDC on compression stroke.

The crank has a keyway on it to make sure it is oriented correctly to the crank pulley and therefore the timing marks.

For cyl#1 [at TDC on compression stroke], that keyway should be at the 12 o'clock position.

The standard crank pulley will then have its' timing marks at about 1:30 o'clock suitable for a timing pointer on the RHS of the engine.

The crank pulley for a car with A/C has the timing marks 90deg. anti-clockwise at about 10:30 o'clock suitable for a timing pointer as you describe.

It sounds like you have a pulley for a non A/C engine and a timing pointer for an A/C engine:surprised:surprised

It all gets back to that crank keyway, that IS TDC for #1:)

Make sure you are using the spark lead for cyl#1 also.

Alright, that was a nice handful of info. My timing marks look to be at about the 8:00 position(on the pulley with the timing light) This side also has a single timing pointer in the general area. I dont have AC if thats useful. I think I should just set the engine at TDC #1 cyl compress stroke, and mark the pulley myself. any specific tips on performing this to the L24?

I have a tip, make sure your rubber dampner in the pulley isn't separating causing the outer pulley and timing marks to move. Happens a lot with these old engine.

Like he said about the possibility of a separating pulley:ermm:

To determine TDC for #1, you just need to set the crank keyway to 12 o'clock.

Make sure that both the valve rockers for #1 are loose, i.e. both inlet and exhaust valves are CLOSED.

This means TDC on the compression stroke.

This is not an exact method.

You could try to determine the piston position more accurately with a screwdriver [or thin wire] in the spark plug hole.

Just be careful it doesn't jam and damage something:finger:

As the crank is turned by hand, the screwdriver/wire will rise up then start going down again as the piston goes through TDC.

I really do think there is something amiss with the pulley though:ermm:

I'll give that a try. I do agree something is 'up'.

If your timing is 180 degrees out (and not 90 degrees out), and its had an engine rebuild, then its most likely that you distributer dive shaft was installed 180 degrees out.

It's not really a problem, just makes setting the timing a little difficult, as it doesn't line up with the timing marks on the cover.

You're right, Nissanman, I have both the 1:30 and the 10:30 pointers and (I think) an AC pulley. (lines up better with the 10:30 pointer) I dont have a dial back timing light and the 10:30 pulley only has a single point(0* i assume) the pulley has a few marks on it (4-5). Does anyone know how many degrees apart they are? Or the diameter of the pulley so I can make a temp timing tape. Thanks for the help!

Now we are getting to the bottom of it all:devious:

The single point timing mark is usd to check against the pulley marks which are in 5 deg. steps.

TDC or 0 deg. is the last notch ,the most ACW notch when viewing the pulley from the front of the engine.

Then, in a CW direction, 5, 10, 15 then 20 deg. advance or deg. BTDC.

There is another version of Timing which uses a single notch on the crank pulley and a graduated static pointer.

Probably easier to read since there is only one notch to find, clean, paint and see with a Timing Light.

Thanks, man!