no start no run

[Fordlover]

ok bought a 1975 280z for 300$ with a rebuilt engine,so i was told. car sat for 7 years. changed fuel tank,added g3 filter.I got gas to injector rail,I have spark,burns off prime, I bought junk yard injectors and cleaned in laquer thinner for 2 days installed no run changed resisters, no run, changed main efi relay no run, changed brain, no run. put meter on 2 different injector harness and on 200 volts dc scale of meter scale gos o to .6 to 0 while engine is cranking. no fuel being injected. what gives? are my used J.Y. injectors crap? should I buy rebuilt ones and install? or what? not a clue with injection. thanks in advance Stephen in Georgia

[WingZr0]

HI

Welcome to the Club

I'd reply to this if I knew what I was doing cause I just got my own Z yesterday.

But you better have a good excuse for that screen name

All In Good Fun

~Z~

[webdawg1]

Check out the following link for the the EFI bible...

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

That should get you going in the right direction. Helps if you have a FSM (Factory Service Manual) as well because the EFI bible makes reference to certain pages in the FSM when doing the various EFI troubleshooting procedures...Perhaps make up a check off sheet as well...that way you can keep track of what you have checked and results vs tests that still need to be done...

Keep up posted on what you find as you work your way thru the system...

If you keep an eye out on eBay you'll see the FSM manuals from time to time...

webdawg1

[Rockr69]

Welcome to the club and congrats on lovin Fords! I'm with ya on that one. Go back to the jy and get an injector harness, just the end that goes on to the injector. Hook up a push button switch to a 9v battery and listen to hear if your injectors are clicking. If they click they're working. No garauntee if they're workin good but you'll know at least.

[zbane]

You state that you are getting fuel to the injectors, but at what pressure? I wonder if your fuel pump is working properly. If the car has been sitting that long, there is bound to be some crud built up throughout the entire system, including the little cone shaped filter in the pump. While you may be getting fuel to the injectors, there may not be enough umph behind them to work properly.

[sblake01]

I thought I'd post this again since it didn't parse properly in the earlier post.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

While you may be getting fuel to the injectors, there may not be enough umph behind them to work properly.

The would still 'click' if they were okay since that's an electronic function regardless of fuel pressure but fuel pressure may be another issue once this one is solved.

[sblake01]

Welcome to the club and congrats on lovin Fords! I'm with ya on that one. Go back to the jy and get an injector harness, just the end that goes on to the injector. Hook up a push button switch to a 9v battery and listen to hear if your injectors are clicking. If they click they're working. No garauntee if they're workin good but you'll know at least.

Like these? The on on the left is the on you described. The one on the right allows you to see the signal while the car is cranking or runing by placing the bottom connector on the injector and the injector harness connector on the top. I made these up about ten years ago and they've both been very useful.

[Fordlover]

HI all, got an update on the project, my georgia Z. Since my last post I have installed a new set of injectors, dropped the gas tank and flushed it, put new hoses on fuel pump with one of those 10$ glass reuseable fuel filters.Then tried to start, no crank. it was intermitent when I first got car, I figured it to be starter relay on starter. So I tapped on starter with a screwdriver, then jumped the starter at the starter and it cranked over. 3 times in a row,then the engine began to run. I filled the radiator and then reved the engine several times to hear how it runs.Sounds pretty good. then I decided to try to drive, to check out the auto trans. It shifted into reverse and the drive.! All lights are working. drove down dirt road and then back to house(short distance with parking brake only). all thid time in shock that this car even tried to start. I thought my new tires would rot off first! they are almost 2 years old with just yard time on them.OK then after s short 5 minute lap of the yard i try to rev the engine and it wants to boog and back fire, not accelerating, and quite running.

NEW QUESTIONS

1) what do I do to get key to work the starter?

2) what test or componant is causing this boog, back fire, quite running problem? the fuel pump is second hand but seems to have plenty of pressure. Car will sit and idle just fine but thenif I touch the gas pedal it doesn't want to run. thanks for all help. Loving this old Datsun. Stephen in Barnesville,Georgia

[sblake01]

Wow, nearly a year and a half later! I'm still here. For question 1, the electrical piece on the back of your ignition switch is likely bad. On question 2, check the fuel pressure. If it drops when you try to rev it, there could be a problem still with some kind of clog in the fuel system. How does that glass fuel filter look after driving the car? Did you change the fuel filter under the hood? By the way, those glass fuel filters are generally made for carbureated cars and won't withstand the fuel pressure of a fuel injected system. If the fuel pressure doesn't drop when you try to rev it, I'd check the water temperature sensor.

[Fordlover]

hey man great to hear from you! ok another update.

1) I put a new filter under the hood.

2) glass filter is on low pressure side of pump

3) last night I took car for a short ride an acre away and let the car just sit and run ablut 10 minutes. then I put it in drive(auto trans) and it flat spoted, cauffed and died..I turned off the key and the turned it back on,then raised the hood to jump starter. it started and then it ran great reving up and all. i drove to house and parked car for the night.

4) when it first did this I thought car was over heating so 2 days ago I took the thermostat out. well it didn't change a thing, still cuts out. I think I will put it back in as it didn't hardly move the temp needle. with stat gauge would go half way. vertical.

5) what does the temp unit do for mixture? I might need to play with the knobs on something? thanks for your time and help! this car needs floors and paint,but I can't wait to run it down the road. new master cylinder this week end.

[Fordlover]

I put the thermostat back in this evening. I had it running this afternoon and it would pop out the intake side when I would try to rev it up. I will run it again tomorrow and see what I get. when I started it I first unpluged the temp on the thermostat housing and it didn't want to start, I plugged in the temp probe and it started up! will let run and see oif I can figure out mixture problem. thanks all.

[sblake01]

The water temperature sensor allows the mixture to be richer when the engine is cold and gradually leans it to normal as the engine warms up. It has to be plugged in for the car to run but if the sensor is bad the mixture won't be right when the car warms up. There's a little more to it but that's the basics. Do you have a factory service manual? There's a pretty good trouble shooting section in the Engine Fuel section. If you don't have one you can download one at http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1975%20Datsun%20280z%20FSM.pdf.