AC vent insulation

[280~Master]

Pulled the dash out of the 280Z to try and find out more about/on the dealer installed AC system and why it won't cool like it should. I know it works because it gets cold and I do feel some air flow.

What I came across was the insulation for the vents and inside of the duct hoses is shot. I kind of expected it though.

My questions are.

What’s the best solution to fixing the insulation is.

Also what can be used to replace the torn and damaged duct hoses under the dash?

[sblake01]

I've used the adhesive backed closed cell foam insulation to seal the vents, evap. housing etc. which I've purchased at ACE Hardware and the ducting is available in various diameters at most AC shops.

[webdawg1]

I was thinking about talking to some of the small airplane aviation guys at the local airport and see if they could source the hoses in the correct size(s) The aircraft hoses hold up quite well...stay flexible...last a long time...etc...etc. The stuff that's was on the ducting looks like some kind of open cell material from what I can tell. I suppose you could probably use some 21st century technology and find some kind of replacement that would insulate better...

webdawg1

[280~Master]

cool Stephen thanks. What thickness of cell foam? I was also going to look at hoses from hottubs. May sound crazy but anything is possible.

[280~Master]

Well I plan on updating most all of it. I will take a hose to work tomorrow and see what my aviation friends have. Heck I may just use steel braided line. I have some cell foam for a door seal that I may be able to use. I am also going to put masstic around the evap to seal it up nice and clean.

[hls30.com]

John,

That Aluminum faced closed cell insulation I used inside the trailer might work well, cut into strips and wrapped around the tubes...

Will

[280~Master]

Not a bad idea Will. I have a tube of clear in the garage but like you said if the fit was good then leave it. (Dash Cap)

[sblake01]

Well, I work on this kind of stuff quite often (see signature) and I've found that there is no reason to overthink it. My vent temps in the 78 280Z and the 79 810 get down to the mid 20s F with the basic insulation I mentioned above and the ducting from the AC shop.

[hls30.com]

...and it's not like the ducts are in the same air space you are trying to cool!

Will

[280~Master]

So I have found replacement air duct hose for the Z's.

NAPA PART # BK8151001 is a 2" x 76"

NAPA PART # BK8131509 is a 2-1/4" x 72"

It runs about 3.29 a Foot, so close to 20.00 for the whole 6 feet.

Now on to the Cell foam.

[Inf]

I was about to post a similar thread, but I figure with some experts already posting I may as well chime in here.

I got the MSA R-134A kit last winter, and I am finally putting it through it's paces in our (normally) blazing hot Texas summers.

So far it works great as long as I am not getting direct sunlight shining down, I think all the window space lets so much sunlight in that the AC can barely keep up.

One big problem I have come across is condensation, but not inside the evaporator (that seems to drain ok through the drain line). Some of the large diameter hoses and metal fittings running to the evaporator get a lot of water condensation which drips into the front of the passenger footwell on a humid day. It isn't a flood or anything, but it is certainly enough to make me concerned.

What kind of insulation should I be looking at for these hoses?

Does this mean my evaporator is not being used efficiently, i.e. the coolant leaving the evaporator is colder than it should be, resulting in condensation on the exit lines?