July 25, 200717 yr comment_216440 I'll check the compression when I get home. To check compression, is the procedure:pull the plugs, attach gauge, attach jumper to starter motor for 5 seconds, check gauge.Pull the plugs, pull coil to dist wire, attach guage, then just use your key to turn engine over. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216440 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 26, 200717 yr comment_216525 Using a jumper or starter trigger on the starter is a lot easier than using the key, unless you have buddy to help. Also, make sure to block open the pistons in the carbs to get maximum airflow and more accurate readings. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216525 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 26, 200717 yr comment_216560 It also helps to warm up the engine before you begin, and hold the throttle open while you crank it over to free up airflow.Steve Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216560 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 28, 200717 yr Author comment_216813 I finally got a chance to check the compression. I checked it warm. But, I wasn't able to rig the piston or throttle open.results:6- 1405- 1504- 1453- 1502- 1601- 155These numbers seem fairly decent. So, I guess the carbs are indeed the problem?Now, I am going to change the wires, plugs, fuel filter. The distributor is new. I'll replace the air filter when I put on the flapper air cleaner with the round top carbs after I get the rebuild kit from Ztherapy. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216813 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 28, 200717 yr Author comment_216818 When I was removing the plugs to test the compression, I broke the #1 plug (and began cussing the fuel pump). So, I went ahead and put a new set of plugs and wires on. It will rev all the way up to 4,500 in neutral now. I think it is still 'popping' a bit. But, the fouled plugs were definitely causing a lot of problems. I haven't run it under load yet. So, we'll see how much of the problem was the plugs. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216818 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 28, 200717 yr comment_216822 I hope you used NGK plugs. 10 inches is not much vacuum at idle. Should be 18 to 20 inches unless you are running a wild cam. If you want to see what others think of flat topped carbs . start a new thread , asking just that. I think you will find the numbers will be at least 20 to 1 for the round top SUs. These cars have been around for a few years and everything has been done to them. Benefit from others experience . I know at least 30 Z drivers personally and not one is using flat top Hitachi carbs. Black plugs if not oily, indicate a rich fuel mixture, they could be wet but it could be gas , which is likely. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216822 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 29, 200717 yr Author comment_216833 I hope you used NGK plugs. 10 inches is not much vacuum at idle. Should be 18 to 20 inches unless you are running a wild cam. If you want to see what others think of flat topped carbs . start a new thread , asking just that. I think you will find the numbers will be at least 20 to 1 for the round top SUs. These cars have been around for a few years and everything has been done to them. Benefit from others experience . I know at least 30 Z drivers personally and not one is using flat top Hitachi carbs. Black plugs if not oily, indicate a rich fuel mixture, they could be wet but it could be gas , which is likely.I used bosch plugs. Should I go with NGK in the future or ASAP?Yeah, I have come to the conclusion that the flat-tops have to go. But, the carbs were not the only problem, and that was kind of my point at the beginning. Everyone (myself absolutely included) wants to mess with carb adjusting/swapping (SUs, weber, holleys, flat-tops, etc.) when they (I) should set the timing properly and replace the plugs and wires (which I did with a huge improvement). For example, the above post which suggested that I check the compression was right on, and I would be/am a fool for not doing that first.I think the flat-tops are dumping too much gas. Rather than rebuild the flat-tops, I think this is a great time to swap for round-top SUs. I can get the ZTherapy kit and benefit from the knowledge of everyone on the subject of SU carburetors. But if I went with flat-tops, I would be going it alone which might be fine for someone who knows a lot more than me, but not for me.Now I can start and idle the car which will make the tuning of the new carbs easier/possible. I'll go back and check the vacuum now that the engine is running a lot better. As far as I know, it's a stock cam.Thanks a lot for everyones help! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216833 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 29, 200717 yr comment_216836 Have you checked the condition of the ign points? are they gapped correctly? Are they quality parts?My 240 went through points every 3 or 4 thousand miles. I kept a spare pair in the car.I haven't owned a 240Z in 16 years, so I'm relying on memory. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/24989-rough-running-engine/?&page=2#findComment-216836 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment