Has anyone stroke 260z's?

[red_dog007]

I have a 240z with the L24 and plan on stroking it. Reason why is I don't want a big fatty V8 in there, or an RB/SR motor. Plus, this is an extremely rare breed that I know I am going to love. Yeah it will cost a pretty penny, but I don't care. My 2.4L will end up somewhere between 2.7L and 2.8L. Reason why people stroke the L28 is because there are kits, and you can pull off anywhere from 3.0L to 3.2L. Up to .5L larger then a L24.

Your L26, you could stroke it and do a mild bore but still only get .1L or .2L increase. Not worth the money imo. You could triple carb it with some 40mm webers or something. That will be some nice power for you right there. Diff and Tranny will make it more responsive also.

[sblake01]

I just don't get that. As said before you could go to the expense of getting an LD28 crank, I don't know where you'd get the pistons but anyway all that expense to end up with an undersquare 2.7 or 2.8 or just get an L28. Not knocking what you say. If you spent the same money a stroked 2.4 or 2.6 would cost you could build a screaming non-stroked L28. To each his own.

[Tony D]

I now have seen the same fallacious statement twice within a week that the L24 or L26 'produced more power' than an L28.

That is a false assumption. Each engine was an increase in power, through torque. The more torque you have, the less rpms you need to use to make the same specific horsepower. The ratings systems changed between all the years the L-Engine was in production. For an equalizer, this is a general set of figures from my experiences dynoing many of these engines in 'stock off the road' running form these numbers are at the rear wheels:

The L20A (JDM) will show somewhere around 75-95 HP, Rated at 130 HP.

The L24 will show somewhere between 100 to 115HP, Rated at 150 HP.

The L26 will show somewhere between 115-125HP, Rated at 162 HP (?)

The L28 will show somewhere between 125-145HP, Rated at 145 HP.

The only S20 I ever saw running on a dyno spun the wheels to 185HP at around 8000rpms, but it was not 'stock'---though externally you couldn't tell anything had been changed. I believe it was a 2.2 Bore-Up kit with some Special Cams. They were rated at 160 HP (PS).

[sblake01]

Throwing out the L20A, I've always seen ratings of 151, 162, 170 for the three USA L engines (L24, 26, 28E) prior to 79 where the rating method changed and the L28E was rated at 145. A 78 810 is rated at 154 and a 79 810 is rated at 120. Same L24E different rating method.

[Rockr69]

I'm with SBlake on the efi. I love my efi even though i ws going to go carbs until I understood it. Boy I'm glad I didn't.

[motorheadwannab]

Thanks for all the input everyone, This really HAS helped me trying to decide between a 240 and a 260, seems like the 260 with the 5 speed tranny and a few more ponies will be the way to go. I can put on tripple carb or just some round tops and be fairly satisfied I think, i'm assuming they are still pretty peppy cars but nothing really special (speed wise that is) I think what I will end up doing is getting a 260, i have one lined up for a little over 1000 with a good body, horrible paint and decent interior...we'll go from there.

As far as the L28 discussion going on in the back round, to me i'm completely dismissed it i made up my mind a long time ago I didn't want one (not sure why tho) and i definitely would not go EFI, wiring and i don't get along well together. Thanks everyone for the input, hopefully in teh next week or so I'll be posting picture of my new-to me 260 or possible 240 (not likely)!

[Zsomething]

Each engine was an increase in power, through torque. The more torque you have, the less rpms you need to use to make the same specific horsepower. The ratings systems changed between all the years the L-Engine was in production.

Story checks out: http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower#Relationship_with_torque

Also, it seems like most cars (Camaros, Mustangs, etc.) have gotten a bad rap for losing horsepower through the '70s. When in reality, automakers were just no longer allowed to make up numbers (ok, not completely make up, but exaggerate definitely). Personally, I think people just want to hate the more complex engines, since they are harder to repair. But, the more complexity you add, the more you can do. (which is why it isn't even shocking now to see new production cars push out 500hp stock.)

[motorheadwannab]

Ok...so there is an internal debate in my head i'm hoping you all can help sort out. I have been reading that people cam and get more power from l24's than l26's, i'm assuming thats because there are parts available. What I am wondering is, would it be easier/cheaper to make a l24 faster/more powerful than a l26? Also, I have been looking into the diff. swap to the r200? I believe is what it is. Though the car I am looking at is a 4spd i figure i'll put a 5 speed in if i can find one cheap, same goes for the r200...well i mean if i find a r200 cheap i'll need a 5spd to get the most out of it right?

[Tony D]

"I have been reading that people cam and get more power from l24's than l26's, i'm assuming thats because there are parts available."

Make a more reasoned assumption: People are idiots and plainly incompetent when setting up engines.

Sad fact is the internet and shade-tree myths that surround our hobby are borne of a culture of ignorance. Most builders slap something on and just say it increases horsepower. People say 'strokers don't rev' or 'the rev limit of the L24 is higher than an L28'---both are pure rubbish.

Properly prepped, or hell, even equivalently prepped, the bigger engine will give you more horsepower, period. An L28 will rev to 7500+ easily with stock components on the bottom end, you just have to use the correct cam...

If you have an L26, build it. There is no replacement for displacement.

[Mr Camouflage]

An L28 will rev to 7500+ easily with stock components on the bottom end, you just have to use the correct cam...

.... and valve springs.

Pick a car, be it 240 or 260 or 280 and spend the money on head work, cam, carbies, and exhaust. The better the engine breathes the more HP its capable of.

Theres no point spending money stroking the L26 when you can pick up an L28 cheap enough.

Or theres the turbo charging option, but thats a whole other can of worms.

Whatever you do, you could dyno the car before and after, so you can see what gains you actually made.

[motorheadwannab]

Very valid points guys thanks, so lets assume i decide i want headwork, i'll put tripples or SU's and an exhaust....whats the price range going to be for that, i can price the exhaust and carbs but i've never had work done like head work so i have no clue on price. Oh and what is the comment about ...and valve springs, is that about building up a l28? anyways thanks guys, i feel better about not swapping to the l28, seems everyone yells at you just swap its cheaper easier and faster...but i don't wanna!

[sblake01]

No one is yelling. It's just that if you you're going to spend the money anyway, why not start with the engine that has the most potential? That's entirely up to you. It is, or will be, your car. You don't have one yet, right? You'll definately need head work, i.e. cam, rockers, springs, porting, which costs money, as well as ignition if you want to run those 'tripples' and expect them to perform properly. Getting them properly setup, i.e. jetting, venturi size, emulsion tubes, etc. is an expensive crap shoot unless you have someone who knows how to work on the which also costs money. You're sitting there, without a car, dreaming, with a lot of incorrect knowlege, with very little, if any clue about costs, what works with what, etc. and if you follow what you've said so far, all you're going to do is get in over your head.