Shifter problem

[WingZr0]

Heres the deal,

Since about 4 days ago I noticed my the shifter wouldn't go into 1st gear some times after stopping at a red light.

It felt like there was a "bolt" or "linkage" that was coming lose causing

the shifter to get stuck, or locked like in a kink, making me have to pull back into Nuetral or 2nd gear to "realign" what ever was not right to get into 1st gear.

After doing this for a few days the shifter always went into gear on the 2nd try when ever it happend. i.e. going from nuetral or 2nd then back into 1st

Today the Problem is getting worse.

I drove up to Maapco to order a new fuel filter for tommorow and came to

another red light and the shifter would not go into 1st again.

At first I thought no big deal and went back to Nuetral and still couldn't get into 1st agian.

Tryied it again no luck, then tried to go into 2nd gear and

shifter would not go in 2nd !

I went back to Nuetral, shook the stick around and was able to get into 1st gear and get her going.

Got back home turned the engine off and tried all the gears.

1st was still haveing some issues and also Reverse was showing the same problems.

3rd and 4th seem OK.... for now.

Question being is there a Bolt thats coming loose or a shifter linkage or something that needs to be tightend up in the shifter?

I orderd a new inner shift boot on Ebay and would like to fix my Shifter issues in a one day shot if possible.

Also would a dry left hand side Rack Bushing be responsible for a loose steering feel?

Right side Rack Busing is coverd in oil and seems fine, Left side is dry with no visible oil and bagan to squeek today and squeeking sounds come when I turn the wheel left and also when driving in a straight line I can hear more little squeeks.

I found the Steering Wheel has to go from top dead center to about 20 degrees left or right befor the front wheels start to turn.

Thyanx for any replies, Tommorow is my only day off work and I'm tryng to knock as many related problems out with RUBY as I can in one day

~Z~

[sblake01]

You most likely need to replace these. 32855-H1010 which is a bushing that goes on either side of the shifter, you'll need two, and 32861-N4200 which goes on the bottom, you'll need one.

[WingZr0]

You most likely need to replace these. 32855-H1010 which is a bushing that goes on either side of the shifter, you'll need two, and 32861-N4200 which goes on the bottom, you'll need one.

Thyanx Blake!

Thats exactly what it feels like too, the #2 bushing out of sinc.

I'll get the ordering from MSA in the morning.

Also the handle has play in it on the up and down axis about an inch,

I assume thats normal though.

Thanks again for the diagrham

~Z~

[sblake01]

No, it should be pretty solid. Sounds like the two side bushings are worn pretty badly or gone. MSA should have them but their numbers will be different as those are OEM Nissan part numbers I listed.

[WingZr0]

Solid

I just orderd those bushing from MSA and I should be getting

a set of Rack Bushings from Ebay hopefully to solve the loose steering Prob.

Going to Maapco now to get Fuel Fileter and a hatch load of some Sea Foam.

...... one thing at a time as the say

~Z~

[240Z-Fan]

I really hope Stephen is right, as the solution is easy and cheap.

A 2nd possibility is that the clutch isn't fully releasing. If this is the problem then you more than likely have a bad clutch slave cylinder. It could be the clutch master cylinder too. These are still relatively cheap. Hope for slave cylinder of the two. The only issue with this diagnosis is that it should be easier to engage a gear with the engine off.

A 3rd possibility is that the roll pin on the 1-2 shift fork sheared. The roll pin is cheap, the problem is that it requires removing the transmission and opening the case to replace it.

As I said, I really hope Stephen is right. Let us know how it works.

Al

[WingZr0]

I really hope Stephen is right, as the solution is easy and cheap.

A 2nd possibility is that the clutch isn't fully releasing. If this is the problem then you more than likely have a bad clutch slave cylinder. It could be the clutch master cylinder too. These are still relatively cheap. Hope for slave cylinder of the two. The only issue with this diagnosis is that it should be easier to engage a gear with the engine off.

A 3rd possibility is that the roll pin on the 1-2 shift fork sheared. The roll pin is cheap, the problem is that it requires removing the transmission and opening the case to replace it.

As I said, I really hope Stephen is right. Let us know how it works.

Al

I Hope so too.

So far all the problems with Ruby have been basic and cheap,

besides the Valvetran noise which I hope is just a stuck lash valve or valve seat, which should be an easy fix once my Valve Cover Gasket arrives from MSA so I can take off the cover for a look first.

Lets try and keep it that way :rambo: :tapemouth

[Ksteve]

As Al said I would check the clutch. When the slave cylinder starts to go bad it will slowly leak fluid past the piston, not noticeable in normal driving but when you stop at a light with the clutch pushed in it gives it time to leak down. Check your clutch reservoir, I'll bet its low or even empty.

If so it is a quick fix, $10 part, 20 min to change out and bleed.

Steve

[sblake01]

I was going with the simplest solution first. Those bushings are usually worn or even missing on many cars I've looked at plus he says he feels play and can move the shifter up and down. That and the fact that he's had the car long enough that a leaky slave or master would probably be past the point of driveability by now.

[Ksteve]

Good point Stephen, if your shifter has that much play in it those bushings should be replaced regardless.

I replaced my original plastic ones with brass and was very happy with the improved shifter feel.

[sblake01]

I tried the brass ones in my 810 for a while. I think they were actually designed for the door pin of some Dodge vehicle. They were nice and solid allright but they rattled/buzzed when I got up to speed in 5th gear. So I just bought about 20 of the OEM ones since I have three vehicles that use them. They're pretty inexpensive.

[WingZr0]

I was gonna go with Brasses but didin't think to ask the the MSA Rep.

Sounds to me like someone know their Dodges