How Much Should I be Spending on a Paint Job for 240z

[kcoke]

Ok so I am getting ready to go get estimates to get my 1971 240z painted. I have all the glass, doors, hatch, windows, etc stripped from the car. The paint needs to be stripped and there needs some minor body work on the sides of the car where the molding was. How much should I be looking to spend to get a good base coat, cleat coat and minor body work for my Z?

Thanks

Keith

[The Wingnut]

I just dropped mine off at paint jail today. I'm paying around $1100 for all the bodywork(not including actual paint, which will probably be another $1000), without paint itself. This includes straightening a 1/4, replacing the doglegs which are shotgunned with holes, pulling the bondo from both fenders and fixing whatever damage is hiding there, pulling the bondo from the hood and fixing the damage there, pulling dents out of the rockers, filling the molding holes(welding) and a few more details.

I stripped the majority of the paint and removed the trim, handles, locks and taillights myself. This saved me about $500 according to the manager. I'd actually recommend stripping the car yourself if you have the space and time to do it, as you'll know in advance what's damaged and / or hidden and will need repair, and it should save you some dough.

I'd suggest shopping around as many places you can possibly find. Concentrate less on the price / turnaround time and more on the level of trust and confidence you get from the person you talk to.

[madkaw]

I am in the same boat as you, I have my car apart, all the glass out and some of the body work done. my car is relatively rust free and no damage. I will be doing a color change which is probably a mute point since it is so far apart. I was estimated 5500$ today for a base coat clear in red. I thought it would be more like 3500$ but I was wrong. The problem is finding a shop willing to take on a job like this. This guy said his shop was slow so he could squeeze me in right now. Most collision shops don't want to deal with this kind of work. I know the 5500$ job would look really good because i know the guy but man that hurts. That price was based on preprimer body work-atleast 12 hours. Then high build primer and blocked--twice. Then a special clear coat. he knows i want close to show paint.

Godd luck

[beandip]

Unless the old paint is completely shot. There is no need to strip it all down to bare metal. If this is done it will cost more to have a complete paint job done. Because they will just need to build it back up . There was filler used at the factory when the car was built. Usually only for small blemishes in the metal. This will come off with the stripper and will just need to be reapplied. Now if some schlock body work was done and filler was used instead of the metal repaired properly then yes remove it. MOST body shops do not take the time needed to properly tap out all the little dents. If they do, the cost for the job will reflect it. A vary good paint job with what you are outlining , I would guess would be in the neighborhood of $3,000.00, for a color change. If you do the sanding and preping, which on my car, I took almost two weeks . Then the cost will be much less. Are they shooting the inside the cabin and engine bay and jambs. You can find a job for half of this , it all depends on what you want done and the quality. Maco will do it for $500.00 Just to give you an idea, my paint, including primer and sealer and all the needed thinner activator and such came to just a little over $700.00. I did use the best available though. Gary

[mbc]

I agree with Gary,

The question you are asking is not easy to answer. I say this because there are , as you know, $100 paint jobs as well as $10,000 paint jobs. This all depends on the condition of the car, amount of prep (bodywork, block sanding, etc.), quality of products used (sealers, paints), intensity of rust removal (rotisserie, cut 'n weld), and final assembly, to name a few.

Bringing a car to a paint shop while disassembled is risky. There are many risk factors that one should consider. The most common is probably the accidental misplacement, or even theft of the parts.

Be careful when having a vehicle painted while disassembled. It is common to see uneven coverage and color/ gloss differences in the clearcoat. Some body panels may look different in specific lighting.

If you are looking to paint all of the areas not seen, have them do this while the Z is apart.Then, they can assemble it and then spray the exterior so the body is covered in a uniform matter.

I am no painting expert, this response is based on experience.

Matt

[Sailor Bob]

I checked with a local shop: total strip, remove/reinstall all parts, inside and outside to look brand new $10000 (not doing that), completely strip exterior $5000 (not doing that either) - I decided she's not that hard looking. I like the car but reality has to be part of the equation, there's alot of stuff you can do with 5k.

What is the car worth when it is finished? Does it matter? No doubt a personal issue - you know what your ok with.

Good luck.

[kcoke]

The paint needs to be stripped because there has been quite a few coats on it. (I would say 4 coats). I started stripping the fenders the doors and got a some stripping of the paint done, but still needs a lot more. I am hoping to get a good paint job (no maaco job) for around 4000. Wondering if this is realistic?

[kcoke]

I just want to get it painted. I disassembled it, and i will reassemble it when the paint is done. The doors and hatch I am sure will need to be put back on when they spray it.

[JimmyZ]

Carl wrote an excellent post which should answer most of your questions regarding quality/expectations and cost. It also outlined how to do business with the body shop.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1281&highlight=carl+beck+paint+shop

If you want the best possible job I'd see about having everything sprayed off the car. The paint guy will try to talk you out of this but this is the best way to get the jambs covered well. Of course this method requires a large booth since everything needs to be sprayed at the same time for color match.

I've only done a few cars and have talked with and helped my body shop friend a few times. Here's a link I made summarizing what I've learned. It might help too.

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html

Jim

[EScanlon]

...snip...

If you want the best possible job I'd see about having everything sprayed off the car. The paint guy will try to talk you out of this but this is the best way to get the jambs covered well.

...snip...

This is the WRONG advice if you're having the car painted with a metallic paint. Metallic paint will acquire a look based on the angle of the part as it is painted in relation to gravity. Not to mention the static electricity developed as you paint the car.

Paint your hood hanging from the wall and then mount it next to your fenders that got painted laying on their side, and next to the cowl that was also painted hanging but at a different angle from the other parts and see if it doesn't appear to be 4 different color shades.

The reason the "paint guy" (who has probably painted dozens of cars) will try to talk you out of it even when you're dealing with a single color non-metallic, is that it adds a major PITA factor to the job as well as causing dozens of other problems besides the PITA.

The painter is the one that will have to put up with your complaints afterwards when the paint doesn't "look right", so don't be surprised if he simply walks away and tells you to paint it yourself.

You don't tell a dentist or a surgeon how to do their job, don't tell the painter or the body man either.

E

[Mr Camouflage]

...paint it yourself.

E

Now thats the best advice. If you want something done right.....

[Carl Beck]

Hi E.

My personal experience would differ from yours it seems. Perhaps it depends on who is painting the car and what materials they are using and of course their experience.

I had a 1970 SS396 El Camino painted a metallic silver (original color).. The body man I used has had too many National Show Wining Cars to count -- and he panel painted the car. I owned it for 10 years and it looked as perfect at year 10 as it did on day 1. You can see it featured in several books about Chevell's and Chevy Trucks. It was painted with Diamount (sp?)

I do agree that you let the body man do what he wants - - but on the other hand it is possible to pick a body man that knows how to panel paint a car; and that can orient the parts in the paint booth properly.

Personally - I think the overall answer to the original question averages out to be around $5K for work that is at least OEM quality, done to a schedule that one can live with. (keeping in mind that the 240-Z's were not "perfect" to begin with).

FWIW,

Carl B.