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hello everyone. I just stumbled across this site and had to register!!! I have been a long time Z fiend and currently am restoring an early model 74 260. RLS30-039721. (what's left of it)

I had been driving for many, many years a 78 2+2 which is now givin it's life up for the better. The rockers, floors, rear wheel arches and the deck lip underneath the hatch is completely wasted.....sooooooo the old bear is being retired and stripped.

The rock solid wonderfully maintained L28 is being transferred to the 260. I will ditch the FI for a set of 72 carbs, swap the current 4 speed for the 5, and the R-200 rear now has a new home.

Along with that, I have already purchased 1" up front and 7/8" rear sway bars, one inch lowered tokico springs and new tokico struts. Urethane bushings all the way around. Brand new brake lines rubber and steel, rear spindle pins, wheel bearings, all pertinent seals, and u-joints.

Fenders, floors, front and rear corners and new passenger rocker panel completes the body parts.

Now I need to stop staring at everything and the gutted 260 shell and GET TO WORK!

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I have stripped two Zeds of the bituminous stone protection and it is not a pleasant job.

I tried wire brushes on the angle grinder etc. but it was not effective.

To do a proper resto. though I perservered with a variety of paint scrapers and had the shell on a rotisserie (see pics under Body and Paint).

Once you get into it, it can come off in fairly large flakes.

WEAR EYE PROTECTION!:geek:

After stripping the bulk of the coating , I then used a 3M scouring pad soaked in kerosine. This softened and eventually dissolved the remnants, leaving the etch primed under body squeaky clean.

Make sure you have a drop sheet under the work area, it gets messy.:tapemouth

After the routine rust repairs, the underbody was prepared for painting and given a good coat of etch primer.

Then followed a coat of Tetrosyl Stone Chip which is a flexible scuff resistant underbody coating.

More user friendly than the genuine Nissan tar! :classic:

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