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Clock and Radio faceplate


rtaylor

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Some months ago I bought an AM radio from Ebay. When it arrived the faceplate had been broken in two. The break occured directly down the center of the amtena switch hole. And the bottom corners had been broken off at the screw holes. Additionally, all of the chrome letters had been worn off from 35 years of use.

My original clock was not functional either (surprise). So I bundled both items up and sent them off to the master.

I got both items back last weekend. I could not believe my eyes when I saw the faceplate. It was in one piece, the corners had been rebuilt, the broken faceplate was now one piece and the raised letters were now silver/chrome colored. It had been painted black and it matches the rest of the dash. What great craftsmanship!!!

And, to top it off, the clock works! The expertise of our members and the willingness to help one other is what sets this club apart from the rest.

Thanks E.

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Here is a picture of mine, can it be fixed? I have been searching for a faceplate for three weeks with no luck. I bought one off ebay that was described as "not broken" but of course it was. (seller did refund my money though)........So if that mystery person is interested let me know.

Thanks,

Randy

post-13312-1415080097151_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

Sorry for the delay in a picture. Just got my camera back from repair.

Here is a picture of the repaired faceplate. The broken piece ran down the antenna slot, it was snapped off there. Almost identical to the break in your's Randy, but yours is on the left side where mine was on the right side. Also, both bottom corners were broken off and the embossed paint was worn off. As you can see, the repair is almost invisbile. The corners look like new. Saved me $400+ to buy a new radio.

post-9967-14150801893332_thumb.jpg

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Actually, full pictures and instructions will be available in an upcoming issue of Nissan Sport.

Hello E,

I have the AM radio and faceplate, but a little different problem. Thought you may have some ideas, or may have included this in the Nissan Sport article. My faceplate is all there, unbroken and uncracked, but it has a significant warpage due probably to heat from the map light and possibly overtightening of the corner mount machine screws. I am thinking of applying heat from a heat gun but am afraid of destroying this nice faceplate by either getting it too hot or possibly causing cracks if the material should shrink from the heat.

Any thoughts or previous experiences with this would be greatly appreciated.

Dan

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Dan:

IF you use the heat gun to S-L-O-W-L-Y heat the part up you won't melt it unless you over heat it.

The biggest problem is that you need to keep a very careful eye on the plastic and keep the heat gun far enough away that you don't blister (boil) the surface. (You'll usually note that it will begin to shine, but that's almost too late...just take your time.)

Sometimes if you use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun you'll get better results and you'll get a good idea of the plastic's "memory" (It's willingness to return to it's original molded shape.) Some plastics (Plexiglass for example) will readily take a heat induced bend and will spring back when re-heated. Others will immediately begin to "shine" and are literally melting in front of your eyes.

Try the hair dryer. You'll be able to heat it a bit slower (due to the wattage) and you should readily note if the corners are beginning to spring back. If they do begin to bend back on their own, then continue with the hair dryer. Additional heat and faster won't necessarily help (and in fact may be totally disastrous). If it seems that the corners "want" to return, but that you haven't heated the plastic enough, then do switch to the heat gun but be aware that it is literally a heat TORCH.

If you have some UV ray (sun light) damage, it may be impossible to heat the plastic back to shape. UV tends to carbonize plastic and it gets brittle. But I'm wondering what map light you're referring to. Aren't they on opposite sides of the Heater Control Panel?

But that aside, if the plastic has literally been "melted" into a new shape and completely lost shape, it might be easier to break off that portion and using simple molding techniques restore the piece.

E

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Dan:

IF

Try the hair dryer. You'll be able to heat it a bit slower (due to the wattage) and you should readily note if the corners are beginning to spring back. If they do begin to bend back on their own, then continue with the hair dryer. Additional heat and faster won't necessarily help (and in fact may be totally disastrous). If it seems that the corners "want" to return, but that you haven't heated the plastic enough, then do switch to the heat gun but be aware that it is literally a heat TORCH.

. But I'm wondering what map light you're referring to. Aren't they on opposite sides of the Heater Control Panel?

E

Thanks, E. Thats the confirmation I was looking for. I have used the hair dryer in the past and I think that will be my appoach.

Sorry about the map light reference. Just had a Senior Moment, as I will need to do the same to an early map light surround, ie., the one without the glare shield. I guess the radio faceplate warped from radio generated heat and the tight screws as the plastic doesn't look powdery from UV exposure and is fairly flexible.

Dan

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  • 4 years later...

Does anyone happen to know if msa or anyone else is thinking about or has done a reproduction of this series 1 faceplate or any s30 radio faceplate?It would seem to me that there would be a big market for these since the originals are really prone to breaking at the

bottom screw holes.

I know they've made repro's in the past because i found this link to the nissan restore program a few years back.

http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/datsun-240z-up-to-7-73-radio-face-plate-reproduction-2

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