Advice on potential 280z purchase

[KDMatt]

Hello Kiboy, welcome to the forums!

I'm very pleased to hear that you're considering a 280z as your next vehicle.

Okay, so here is my experience, and this is just me.

First, I would like to say that I'm a student, so funds are extremely tight for me most of the time. I use my '76 280z to commute to work almost every day, I also use it to bring loads of laundry back home etc. etc. you know, daily driving.

It rarely gives me any problems... I'd say maybe a moderate issue every two thousand miles or so... which, for me, equates to one moderate issue per summer pretty much. You just can't be afraid to fall in to the learning curve straight away, and you must also be prepared to resign yourself to the fact that there are some jobs you aren't going to be able to do right of way... When I first got the car the alternator went out... I could probably easily replace it myself now... but back then I had no clue what I was doing, so I hacked up the $200 or so and took it to a shop... I still kick myself in the @$$ for that one.

Now granted, my Z hasn't even hit 90k yet on the odometer (and yes, that's 90k I'm talking about, not 190k or 290k)... but believe me, these cars WILL go the distance if you care for them. A gentleman in my local Z-club has over 350k miles on his!

One thing you have going for you is that it's a four-seater... from my experience (and it's limited), most people who beat the hell out of these cars prefer the two-seater coupe version, and not the the more "family-friendly" installment...

There's a complete list of things to look at when you go take a peek at the car, but keep an eye out for rust or even little pocky 'bubbles' that tend to signify larger problems... I'm sure that at $2600 there'll be a few little spots, but hopefully nothing too major. Take a peek underneath at the "frame" too... the underside of these cars is often the first thing to go... and once that's gone you really don't have a car anymore, so pay extra attention here.

It's also a commonly held conception (one that happens to be true) that white is the best color to paint a car if you wish to conceal blemishes... just keep that in mind.

My final thoughts:

The Good

- The Datsun Z-car is generally pretty affordable for a 'classic' or 'vintage' car that actually looks cool and goes fast.

- These cars can also be very reliable...

- ... and affordable to maintain ... Common parts are not hard to come by at retail-chain auto part stores at good prices... at least cheaper than any of the parts for cars that my friends/parents drive (i.e. starter, radiator, various sensors, etc.)

- Chicks dig 'em ... (Ricers/Tuners hate 'em... for that reason I think too!)

The Not-so-Good

- The 280z in particular relies on a sophisticated network of electronic sensors and relays, so diagnosing various conditions can be a bit... cumbersome... especially with 30-year-old wiring

- Despite their rock solid design, stuff does break on these cars... probably no more than a domestic car of a newer vintage, but still... it's a car, its not infallible

- Specialty parts (various relays, engine pieces, body parts, etc. ) can be harder to come by... if something very specific goes out on the car, it's not unheard of to have to wait a few days to a week for the part to arrive

So, I hope I didn't scare you off. with all of my rambling

I love my Z, and I wouldn't drive anything else, and I hope that you consider all of your factors and make a very informed, well-reasoned decision free from emotion. If you decide to buy it, there will be plenty of time to let your emotions go nuts later.

[kiboy6]

Thanks so much KDMatt... I really appreciated your detailed response

I'm going to meet the seller at a mechanic's shop somewhere near his house and have a mechanic check it out.

Other than what's already been stated (compression test, rust etc.) are there any specific things I should tell the mechanic to look for? And are there any particular criteria I should think about in picking the mechanic to begin with?

[76Datsun280z]

Thanks so much KDMatt... I really appreciated your detailed response

I'm going to meet the seller at a mechanic's shop somewhere near his house and have a mechanic check it out.

Other than what's already been stated (compression test, rust etc.) are there any specific things I should tell the mechanic to look for? And are there any particular criteria I should think about in picking the mechanic to begin with?

Other than what's already been stated (compression test, rust etc.) are there any specific things I should tell the mechanic to look for?

Checking for loose, corroted old wiring under the hood that can effect the running of the car that might need replacing in the near future which is also a common thing with these cars. Check the hoses ect, ect...

[KDMatt]

Wow, sounds like you're seller is pretty confident in the quality of what he's selling if he's meeting you at a shop of your choice to have a techie check it out. Again, I think that spells good news for you... (and presumably good news for him too, if his car comes back with a good report it'll make it easier to sell if you don't end up buying it)

In picking a mechanic/shop ... obviously it would be nice to find a place that knows imports or classics ... I think it looks like your looking for a standard 20-point inspection or something to that effect... all shops are a little different but provided you get the essentials checked out that's all your looking for...

Someone feel free to ammend to this list too, this is only me (li'l ol' me), not the most car savvy person on here I know, making this list...

U-joints (clicking, squealing, excess play)

Clutch (as well as the involved hydraulics)

Brakes; rotors, pads, shoes, drums (also with involved hydraulics)

Transmission (shift quality, gear grinding, etc.)

Suspension (ride quality, play or movement in joints or bushings)

Belts and Hoses (looking for cracks or excessive wear)

Tires (looking, again, for excessive or unusual wear...)

Compression Check (I know this has been mentioned)

It probably also would be beneficial to have the sparkplugs read. Looking at the deposits on the plugs can determine how well (or poorly) the engine is running, and looking at them with a mechanic right there can't be a bad idea either.

Also, I know that in CA certain vehicles are required to test for emissions... I don't know if this particular vehicle is exempt or what, but it's probably in your best interests to FIND OUT. You don't want to get stuck with a car that won't pass emissions testing. Many good men have been driven to madness in a desperate attempt to get their car to pass... We wouldn't want the same to happen to you! :dead:

Good luck sir!

[sblake01]

A 1977 280z will have to be smog checked in California. If you know the VIN or the Caifornia license number which I can't make out in the pics, you can check it's smog check history back to about 1997 at http://159.145.15.175/StdPage.asp?Body=/ActiveStns/PubTstQry.htm

[Sailor Bob]

Hey KD, there's alot of stuff you have to accept with any older cars or for that matter second hand cars. For Zs It's very likely that the shifter bushings will be toast or showing wear - its not a big deal, but may make a nube uncertain as to the state of the tranny, crappy tires (what you mention is true) occasionally mean the seller hasn't ever rotated them or replaced a blowout with junk to have four full of air. Hoses, belts, brakes and clutches are all wear parts that can be easily replaced and can be used as bargaining tools to reduce price.

I am stuck with the classic car perspective on these babies - a solid car with good running gear and potential would do it for me, if I liked the car - getting a solid body with a good interior, engine is not worn out, electrical gear works, no signs of abuse - if all the other items you mentioned are good to - hell I want this car.

[KDMatt]

Hey KD, there's alot of stuff you have to accept with any older cars or for that matter second hand cars. For Zs It's very likely that the shifter bushings will be toast or showing wear - its not a big deal, but may make a nube uncertain as to the state of the tranny, crappy tires (what you mention is true) occasionally mean the seller hasn't ever rotated them or replaced a blowout with junk to have four full of air. Hoses, belts, brakes and clutches are all wear parts that can be easily replaced and can be used as bargaining tools to reduce price.

I am stuck with the classic car perspective on these babies - a solid car with good running gear and potential would do it for me, if I liked the car - getting a solid body with a good interior, engine is not worn out, electrical gear works, no signs of abuse - if all the other items you mentioned are good to - hell I want this car.

Oh no, right I get that.

I guess I should have mentioned that I didn't mean to imply that if all of those items weren't pristine that one should pass on the car.

I merely meant that those are things that should be looked at before any used car purchase to get a general sense of what kind of care the car has received in its lifetime.

I paid $2300 for mine about two years ago, and a lot of that stuff was far from pristine... (the shifter bushings were and still are toast) didn't stop me though