round top conversion (egr and throttle opener)

[Zsomething]

I finally ripped off the flat top Hitachis, and I want to make sure I am handing the emissions stuff right.

First, the egr solenoid valve has a bend metal hose that connected to the rear carburetor. What should I do with this on the round tops?

Second, I have the flapper air cleaner, and it has one less large port and one less small port. The large port came from the flat top carburetor, so no worries there. But, the 4 small hoses are: from the throttle opener control, from the flame trap, from the balance tube to the "idle compensator" in the air cleaner, and a mystery hose that hooks to a device that Tees into the PCV manifold port and a metal tube to somewhere (maybe gas tank or A/C related). (I assume the vacuum port that went to the intake air temperature control from the front carburetor can be safely plugged.)

So, my thought is the hose from the balance tube to the idle compensator (which isn't on the new air cleaner) has to go. How should I go about eliminating the vacuum port? Should I go ahead and remove the entire throttle opener control system? Or should I just plug the hole in the balance tube? Should I use gasket maker or jb weld to close holes in the balance tube?

Also, adjusting screw for the carburetors and the rail connecting the float bowls (maybe?) on the carburetors can be removed safely?

Thanks!

[Zsomething]

Also, adjusting screw for the carburetors and the rail connecting the float bowls (maybe?) on the carburetors can be removed safely?

Haynes calls the screw the "Slow running adjustment screw". I think I'm going to see if this will come off and then jb-weld it.

Also, I'll probably just remove the "Throttle closure delay" and be done with it. But, I don't think it will hurt to leave it there for now unconnected.

[Bruce Palmer]

... The Euro Balance tube has a provision for brake booster port and the PCV port and that's all. One carb has a port for the distribtor vacuum and that's it. The rest of the "stuff' can be removed and sent sailing over the fence into the neighbor's back yard.... Plug any holes and you're good to go.

Return Spring: pick up a couple (we have 'em) of springs, drill two holes in the heat shield and make two wire "S" hooks to attach to the heatshield and springs and shazam! The reason for the "S" hook is to give your springs longer life by not sawing on the edge of the hole you drilled in the heat shield. Using fairly large wire for the "S" hook should give it a long and healthy life before it wears through..... Ask me how I know.....

[Zsomething]

Thanks. I was pretty sure that I could chuck most of the stuff. But, I wanted to be sure. And since I have already broken off one screw and stripped/mangled several others, it seems unlikely that the things will go back on.

I would like to keep the egr, if possible. Because, I think that plugging the exhaust hole might require a little more than jbweld. Do you have any ideas on where to run the metal tube that went from the egr servo to the port on the rear carburetor. I think it is carburetor vacuum (maybe?). But, the round tops don't have a port on the rear carburetor. Perhaps the egr is more trouble than it is worth...

Will any good springs work? I'd hate to wait in the mail for something I can get at the local hardware store.

Thanks!

[240ZX]

Regarding the springs....if you can find stainless springs, buy'em....they won't rust, they will stay looking good, and work just as well as steel springs for this application. At least mine have been fine since I installed them back in 2000.

Tom

[Zsomething]

the screw that limited the return motion (attached to the egr) does not hit the pad on the firewall throttle (not sure how to call it) shaft.

I think the screw attached to the egr that I was worried about is what is referred to as the "maintenance screw" in the ztherapy video. It sounds like I can get away without this by using the brick on the accelerator method suggested in the video.

I'm heading to the hardware store now to get the stainless springs. I am going to shoot for something like this (or a little bit less so I can put in sturdy S hooks):

the spring coil length 2-1/8"+1-1/2"+1-3/8''=5'',this set up is on the car.Ihave a 260 spare engine and measures 4-3/4" hole to hole 4 bolt S.U,s and what I believe is the proper heat shield by the bent out tabs to hold the spring hook,but the springs are missing.The shield on the car is drilled so the springs are just fitted to tension the throttle.I haven,t touched the car since I,ve owned it just over a year,all work and mods by previous owners.The spring is close to .060'' wire dia. ,circumferance 7/16"

I'm also going to pick up a 5x80 countsunk screw with "external star" lock washer (which I mangled during the removal of the old throttle linkage). Source: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17320

Thanks for the help guys.

[Zsomething]

I picked up 3.25" springs with 1" S hooks. I'll play around with the geometry and geometry and how much tension to keep on it when the butterflies are closed when I get some time tomorrow. I should have plenty of heat shield to work with to make it as tight as I want.

Maybe 5x80 means something different to the referenced poster. But, 80mm is WAY too long (which anyone that looks at the screw, or thinks about it a little, will realize). I got a 5x25 which is also too long. It looks like it is probably 5x20. Anyway, I figure that I can get a nut and a lock washer on the end now, since I couldn't find the star washer and the extra 5mm doesn't hit anything.

As for the firewall linkage, there is a little bit more back and forth play than I would like. So much, in fact, that the linkage can come completely out of the far pivot point. I'll probably put a shim of some sort on the firewall, if I get around to it. But, it doesn't seem like too big of a deal.

Next step is to static set the carburetors, hook them up, plug the extra vacuum holes, and (with some luck) tune them.