New guy & 260 or 280...purchase advice.

[EverRude]

Hi all. Been lurking here for awhile. I want to purchase a 70-78 Z. I'm not fond of the ZX's.

There are 2 within 20 miles of my place currently for sell.

A 260z with rusted floors but everything just about it solid (rails, battery, tirewell, fenders, rockers...etc) Just 2 big holes in the floors. Runs but needs some serious tuning. Haven't driven it yet but would before purchase. It's got it's original L26(?) and the smog carbs have been replaced with 2 weber DGV's. It's an automatic (much rather have the 4 speed) Been repainted atleast once. Originaly blue now a burgandy. I can't find bondo in the usual places. Window channels seem solid but the seals have gaps so it won't be too long for they do rust through. The windshield has a large crack. I haven't seen a windshield for sale as a repro. Are these available? Anyways the guys is asking $1250. The lowest he would go so far is $1k. I'm betting I could take it with $850 to 900 cash if I had it in hand when I spoke to him next.

The second car is is a 77/78 280z. Not sure which. It's a 5 speed and I'm assuming all original. Gold with white interior. Rusty is understating it. Rusted floors, rockers, quarters, doors. I mean rusted through not just surface rust. This car has cancer. I haven't spoken with the owner myself but I've been told $1500 is his price. That's nuts.

I betting noone would buy the 280z considering it's condition. But the old ball status of the 260 with it's automatic makes me want to look longer and harder. However given my current choices the 260 seems like a steal. I've seen higher prices and non running rusted cars online. I know sometimes guys here find good car for low prices but is this atleast average?

I know a salvage yard with several wrecked 280zx's. I'm thinking of transferring the entire driveline (motor, tranny, and rear) into the 260 body. I'm betting I can get one of those cars for $600 or so. So potentially I could have a 260 with patched floors, L28, 5 speed, and r200 for something like $2k roughed out. Sounds ok to me.

I want a driver car I can occasionally cone race at local events.

Any advice?

[Sailor Bob]

First off welcome to the site. If you want a Z you will find one.

I would look outside the 20 mile radius - there are lots of nice cars around, but you will likely have to travel further and spend a little more $$$.

Good luck

[Spridal]

I highly suggest you keep looking. You can find a good Z if you take your time and look.

[mars23z]

Can you get both? Then you have the transmission you want from the 280 and if its just floor boards maybe they can be repaired.Chris

[Spridal]

I highly suggest you keep looking. You can find a good Z if you take your time and look.

[EverRude]

I can do the floorboards no problem. I'm in the middle of restoring a 1970 Mustang Fastback. Though it was virtually rust free I still had a few patches to do.

This car needs to be a driver with little done to it aside from brakes and drivetrain maintenance for atleast a year while the Mustang is priority and takes the space in the workshop. Aftwards the Z would go in.

I've kept an eye online for anything available for the last few months. My range is more like 200 miles. The trouble is so many people say "rust free" or very little rust when you ask them but when you see the car it's a whole other ballgame. I don't want to waste my time or money driving 200 miles to find out a local car is just as good or better.

Every dime or minute I spend looking at cars is money and time wasted on a local project or my Mustang.

There's a guy 200 miles away with 2 240z for $800 but neither run. If he was local I'd jump on it. But how can I afford to haul 2 cars 200 miles and still have no driver car without more money invested.

Thanks for y'all advice so far.

[JimmyZ]

It took me about a year and a half to find my Z. Don't settle! You and the car will know when you've found each other. (That sounded kind of messed up eh?) You're going to put so much into the car. It might as well be a car that you truly like and not something you settled for.

The 240's at a distance sound interesting. I found engines and trannies as cheap as $125 each so getting a Z car operational isn't hard. Actually getting the thing operational is the least of your worries. Getting it presentable is what you'll be spending time on.

2c,

Jim

[mriz]

Don't forget about the suspension/brakes/electrical/fuel system if it's been sitting awhile. Those also take resources to fix so by the time you finish those things ,that money could have bought a better Z. The best advice I have seen is to be patient pay up front for the nicer car or that money will just be spent on parts for the lesser Z. Just look at the picture below. Best of luck

[FHPTOM]

Don't want to sound like a broken record, but I agree with all the above. I have purchased 2 other Zs and did nothing with them but quickly resell them. Wait and one will appear that meets your needs. Mechanically sound but might need some TLC to make it look nice.

[EverRude]

I'll be waiting. Went back the afternoon when it wasn't so hot and I could spend more time looking. Can't believe I missed it before. Battery try has surface rust but looked fine. There's a big hole under the battery try I couldn't see however. That hole leads to on in the front passenger wheelwell that leads to a rusting frame rail. Add to that both doors look solid but looking from underneathe and the bottom rails of each is rusting through. Boy this car looks solid from every other angle tho. heh.

I'll skip on it unless he offers to sell for maybe 500 and prolly not then. I'll keep looking. Thanks alot guys.

[JimmyZ]

It might look like mine did. Here's what it took for me to fix it..

Completely doable but not much fun. There was too much rot near the inner fenderwell so it had to be cut away. Got the new frame rail from MSA. Prior to the fix the car was getting too squirrelly, especially in the rain.

[EverRude]

That's the spot. Looks like fun but I'd rather avoid it.