Is it supposed to run when in the ON position or only when cranking the Engine.

I can still here my tunes though in the AC position

Will it hurt anything if I leave it where its at? It just seems that the electrical going to the Cold start valve isn't working or the AFM I'm not sure which. Once I hotwire the Cold start valve it will idle perfectly fine. When I try and rev the engine it chokes and dies.

it sounds like a lack of fuel to me.

i'm having a problem with flooding though, i THINK the cold start valve is broken and is stuck wide open, because the car won't hold fuel pressure. the fpr is fine, and none of the injectors leak. I freaked out because this started after i had cleaned my water temp sensor plugs with vinigar to get rid of teh corrosion (which did a good job of cleaning them) I tried jumping the cold start valve with a 9v and nothing happend. thought the batt was dead, so i jumped an injector, and it clicked like it should. go back to the cold start, no sound. this thing is running so rich that it won't fire, and when i did get lucky enough to fire it up, i had trouble keeping it at 500rpm with the gas to the floor. it IS getting spark, that was one of the first things i checked to see if it was a fuel delivery problem, or a flooding problem.

would a busted cold start valve cause it to flood this badly?

My guess would be yes. I wasn't getting fuel so I put fuel into it and jumped the cold start like I had been before and then tried starting it. The car was flooded. I took out the plugs cleaned gas off them and let it evaporate from the engine. Put the plugs back in hooked up the wires and it fired first try. So yeah the CSV could be a huge problem.

well the cold start valve doesn't leak (took it out and turned on the pump) but it is busted, i can't get it to kick on with my battery. It does hold pressure it seems, (kicked an injector on and could hear the fuel spraying) the plugs are black, and were deffinetly soaked in fuel. i'm wondering if somehow i ****ed up when i cleaned the connections with vinegar, though, that doesn't seem likely.

the water temp sensor is perfect (checked at ECU)

the injectors are firing, fuel indicates it. I do have spark (checked by setting a plug on the engine to see if it sparked)

if i held it to the floor, it had a very small amount of life, but never enough to fire up. it WON"T start even on starter fluid. after a while of cranking it, etc, it won't even have that little blip of life.

I've got a VERY strong feeling my sparkplugs are totally fuel fouled. (of course, i DID run it over 200 miles running it so rich it smoke screened. after i cleaned the connectors a bit, it still smoked, but not much. I'll bet that it was a coincidence that it crapped out at the same time i cleaned it. who knows though. I'll find out when i get a new set of NKG's (instead of crappy autolites)

Have you checked your FPR (fuel pressure regulator)? Should be at 36psi.

i don't have anything to check it. it's been fine though. the reason why i think it's the plugs is the fact that after purging the fuel lines, disconnecting the lines, and spraying starter fluid into the intake, it STILL won't start up. when normally, it would fire up to about 1500 then die due to lack of fuel.

fuel pressure should be ok. i've put 200 miles on it in the past few days without a single hiccup before this (which is why i think the plugs are shot) if i can find a gauge i'll hook it up just to double check the pressure. but at this point, ti's not firing on even starter fluid, when normally it would.

i replaced the sparkplugs, it fired up, but it's spewin more black smoke than ever. the water temp sensor is perfect. what else causes a rich mixture like this? could my FPR be shot?

so, it's getting awesome spark. i haven't checked my fpr yet (i'm going to buy a gauge tommorow)

I did however, disconnect the afm boot from the throttle body a bit to let more are in, and less flow through the afm. idled great and reved good till it hit 3000 rpm, then it floods, so i lifted the afm more out of the boot while holding it at 3000, and what do ya know, it revved even further.

bad afm a possibility? i know these have an a/f ratio screw, but there's a cap blocking the area that it would normally be. does this cap knock out of place?

(and is it possible for the afm spring to wear out so much that the flap is now too weak?)

stupid question but what about your dist. cap? have you double checked the order because mine was doing the same thing and I had the plugs in the correct order just going the wrong direction. Just a thought.

HAHAHAHA I googled my part number on my AFM

it's a mid 80's MR2 AFM! HAHA

no wonder why it ran bad! it's an afm for a 1.6 liter being pulled by a 2.8 liter!

i'm tightening the flap up to basically recalibrate it for the bigger engine.

oh, i didn't hit send. It's running BEAUTIFULLY after adjusting it. basically, it was so loose, that i could suck on it and it would go wide open (wow)

i made it too tight though, so it's running REALLY lean (and overheated a bit)

i'm going to back off the adjustment a bit, that should fix it.

looks like my problem was because of a part for a little itty bitty engine, and not for the bigger 2.8 .