Hi All

Anyone else have problems downshifting to third. Upshifting, no problem, but trying to take the Z out of third to second reguires alot of effort.

Tranny fluid levels perfect. Both 3rd and 5th were replaced when the Z was restored.

Centerforce 2 dual friction clutch requires complete pressure so when I shift all gears my foot is to the floor with the clutch.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Vicky

Well this is just a shot in the dark because it happened to me once in the 810. There is a plastic bushing on the bottom of the shift lever that the lever snaps into. Mine was broken in three places and caused some strange problems with shifting that were cured when I replaced the part. 32861-N4200 is the part number but while you're in there it's a good idea to replace the two on the sides also. 32855-H1010. You'll need 2 of those.

Hi All

Anyone else have problems downshifting to third. Upshifting, no problem, but trying to take the Z out of third to second reguires alot of effort.

Vicky

I'm trying to understand. When shifting progressively 1,2,3,4,5 you have no problems right? When downshifting for braking action from 3>2 you are having trouble. Are you having trouble getting into 2 when the RPM's aren't in line with the gear being selected. If so, then a cheap little brass ring (baulk ring) which acts as a brake is all that needs replacing. (Most likely)

If it's simply hard to release from 3rd gear then there are a few things it could be. (Input shaft main/needle bearings, bad front countershaft bearing, cracked synchro sleeve, loose pin/bore on selector fork)

Tearing down will tell.

I know that you believe the clutch to be innocent but tearing down will tell on that one too. Before taking anything off verify that the slave or master isn't leaking. It might be that the clutch isn't fully realeasing but most of the synchros can overcome it except the "sloppy" one you're writing about.

2c

Jim

... Are you having trouble getting into 2 when the RPM's aren't in line with the gear being selected. If so, then a cheap little brass ring (baulk ring) which acts as a brake is all that needs replacing. (Most likely)

Yes, and not a bad idea to replace the little baulk springs at the same time. It is a real drag to rebuild and replace all the baulk rings to find that shifts are still crunchy or resistant because of weak springs. In fact, based on the handful of 5-speed rebuilds we've done, I wouldn't do the rebuild without new springs. Last time around, I couldn't get replacement springs in time so I heated the old ones gently with a torch and stretched them slightly. Has worked great for several years.

The Z Doctor does sell stainless baulk springs that he claims are superior to stock. Next rebuild on one of our other Z's, I'll try these out.