240z Alternator

[Zs-ondabrain]

Not exactly a dangerous thought, Figure it this way, I did'nt experience an overheating connector problem for quite a while after installing the 60 amp alternator. If the 60 amp fuse were to blow, which it most likely won't, you should still have your fusible link at the starter which will protect it from that point on.

As far as I know, there is supposed to be a fusable link at the alternator, for such an occasion.

If there is a surge or short, it too will "pop" and everything will go dead. But just remember that it's better to have the fuse and or fusable link blow rather than have things melt or catch on fire from over-use or shorting out.

You should'nt have any problems unless you try and use EVERYTHING all at once. Which I don't suggest on ANY car.

I figure it this way, it's a 37 year old car and if anything is gonna fail, it's gonna fail big. There's nothing wrong with being over protective when it comes to a classic like the Z's.

Dave.

[moritz55]

I'm interested in upgrading my alternator to the 60amp 280zx version. I have a Sept, 1972 vintage 240z. There are no fusable links visible to me, but would still like to upgrade to 60amp alternator. Do you think this is safe?

I felt I could run the 8 gauge (Red) wire from the + Alternator --> + Starter post parrallel to the harness wiring. I'll have a Maxi 60amp fuse in the middle of the 8 guage wire run.

Question: The Starter post this connects to is the Battery Terminal (Red) post I presume - not the soleniod post (the soleniod post comes from the ingnition switch I presume??)

Many thanks.

[moritz55]

Sorry folks. I'm new to all this electrical stuff and am taking guidance from this forum and special help from Dave - Zs-ondabrain.

My question above has some errors after I inspected under the hood.

New Question: The Soleniod + post connects to the Battery Terminal (Red) post. The Alternator + (Red) wire connects to this Soleniod + (Red) post.

Correct ?

Many thanks.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Yes, correct. But just remember that by running a power wire from the alt (+) post to the Starters (+) post, you actually end up almost completely bypassing the amp meter.

Alt to fuse box, fusebox to amp meter, amp meter to fusebox and starters positive post. It splits before the fusebox then goes to both the fusebox and the starter.

So in essence, the ampmeter is getting voltage on both of it's leads, from the alternator. But the way I did it charges the battery better and thats where most of my accesories are powered from (directly from the battery).

Dave.