I hope this can help someone, it took a lot longer than I thought it would so be prepared for a long job.
Rear Arches
Firstly sketch out the area you wish to remove and take all the paint off it (photo 5 + 7), I did this with a sanding pads on a grinder disc. You can get a rough line by holding the gtr flare up and running a pen along the underside. Make sure you cut away enough.
You then need to seperate the outside skin from the inside one. The easy way to do this is to just go along the wheel arch using an angle grinder with a really thin disc to take the lip off so the two will seperate. In photo 4 I pulled one apart with a screw driver and it was a total waste of time, just chop the ends off.
Once the two skins are seperate then use a very thin cutting disc to made all the verticle cuts marked out on photo 5. Bend all the front skin section outwards and then cut away all the inside skin using the grinder as shown in photo 3. Once this is done you can see (photo 1) that a section is also double skin on the inside, just spot weld the two inside panels every inch or so to secure them together before folding the pieces over and welding.
I found it best to weld the two middle two sections shown in photo 1 before bending the others so the panel had some strength and a hammer could be used to help.
Tack all the others down and beat gently with a hammer until they have the inside skin shape (photo 2). Photo 6 & 10 show my dodgy welds. The welder I was using would only work on a high amp and was doing a lot of burning through the panel, making life very difficult with lots of molten steel dropping on my ankles. Clean all the welds up with the grinder and grinding disc then paint away. I chose to put fibre glass bog with steel in it over the inside to smooth it out a bit.
This fibreglass bog is also ideal for strengthing the mounting points of the flares as if you buy a set from challenge fibreglass like me they won't line up with the guards properly. If you were to just pop rivit them on as Alfa suggested they would break the flare as soon as you tried to tighten them up. I spoke to Phil from Challenge about this and he stated that the addition of bog to fix this problem was common place on nearly all aftermarket flares.
The overall job wasn't too neat but the area won't be seen once the flares are on so I wasn't worried. It ended up being very strong after all the welding.
I'll post more photos when I get round to doing the front ones and fitting the flares. I'll be changing the flares a little so I won't be putting them on until she comes back from the engineers.
I hope this can help someone, it took a lot longer than I thought it would so be prepared for a long job.
Rear Arches
Firstly sketch out the area you wish to remove and take all the paint off it (photo 5 + 7), I did this with a sanding pads on a grinder disc. You can get a rough line by holding the gtr flare up and running a pen along the underside. Make sure you cut away enough.
You then need to seperate the outside skin from the inside one. The easy way to do this is to just go along the wheel arch using an angle grinder with a really thin disc to take the lip off so the two will seperate. In photo 4 I pulled one apart with a screw driver and it was a total waste of time, just chop the ends off.
Once the two skins are seperate then use a very thin cutting disc to made all the verticle cuts marked out on photo 5. Bend all the front skin section outwards and then cut away all the inside skin using the grinder as shown in photo 3. Once this is done you can see (photo 1) that a section is also double skin on the inside, just spot weld the two inside panels every inch or so to secure them together before folding the pieces over and welding.
I found it best to weld the two middle two sections shown in photo 1 before bending the others so the panel had some strength and a hammer could be used to help.
Tack all the others down and beat gently with a hammer until they have the inside skin shape (photo 2). Photo 6 & 10 show my dodgy welds. The welder I was using would only work on a high amp and was doing a lot of burning through the panel, making life very difficult with lots of molten steel dropping on my ankles. Clean all the welds up with the grinder and grinding disc then paint away. I chose to put fibre glass bog with steel in it over the inside to smooth it out a bit.
This fibreglass bog is also ideal for strengthing the mounting points of the flares as if you buy a set from challenge fibreglass like me they won't line up with the guards properly. If you were to just pop rivit them on as Alfa suggested they would break the flare as soon as you tried to tighten them up. I spoke to Phil from Challenge about this and he stated that the addition of bog to fix this problem was common place on nearly all aftermarket flares.
The overall job wasn't too neat but the area won't be seen once the flares are on so I wasn't worried. It ended up being very strong after all the welding.
I'll post more photos when I get round to doing the front ones and fitting the flares. I'll be changing the flares a little so I won't be putting them on until she comes back from the engineers.
Cheers Andrew
Link to comment
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/25279-gtr-flares-how-to-fit/Share on other sites