Jump to content
Remove Ads

Featured Replies

Are your plugs wet? Mine seem to have some dampness to them, but it's more viscous, like oil...mind you, they aren't SOAKED, but lightly damp...I am certain I am not getting gas into the chamber....are you seeing something similar?

Also, how sensitive are 240s to plug gap? I would expect that even if off, you'd have some burbling or firing - I'm getting NOTHING....NADA. Spray the ether, it fires then dies...I know there's no gas getting there. As Steve suggested, I'll take a look at the fuel pump, I suspect that's the issue.



Remove Ads

ya. pull your plugs and look at them, check your plug wires, check your dizzy rotor and cap (for cracks, worn contacts, carbon buildup, etc), and check ALL plugs at the plugs, cap, and coil. try starting fluid and see if it does anything.

is your timing right? if it is, pull a plug and connect it to the wire, then set it next to the block (to ground it). see if you're getting spark to the plugs. if you have air, fuel, and spark, there should be no reason it doesn't run or start, assuming the timing is correct.

I don't have an answer, like I said before, but I don't think timing, spark plugs, distirbutor, etc. would have anything to do with it if the problem was created when you battery blew due to a bad regulator. It has to be somewhere in the starting or charging circuit. Fuses, fusible links, ignition relay, etc. Anything that could be damaged by a power spike or surge.

^makes sense, stephen, but if he is getting spark/air/fuel when cranking (to verify spark), then the only thing it can be is timing AFAIK.... did you check the order of your spark plug wires?

My assumption is based on the fact that nothing else has been changed since the battery blew. IF I'd ever been in the same situation, I would have followed the battery/regulator/alternator path in attempting to locate the problem. But with all the tinkering in other areas since that happened, who knows?

^exactly. it seems highly unlikely that anything in that circuit that could have blown would be causing this issue, especially since spark is there. i'm all out of ideas....

checked it all umm i cant really do the timing until i get the car started sop it would be very difficult

I's sure he meant 'static timing' i.e. distributor in the right relationship so that the rotor points to #1 plug wire when cylinder #1 it at TDC. The engine doesn't have to be running to check that. However, like I said before, if the car was running before the battery blew, and you haven't done anything to the timing since then, you can rule that out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.