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obxtrainman

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Thanx for all the comments fellas. I believe EScanlon hit the bulls eye. I sucked on the vacuum hose on the vacuum advance assembly, and absolutely no movement occurs. It's stuck. I'll try to order one from courtesy Nissan today.

OBX

When you suck on the hose put your tongue over the end and will it hold vacuum? If the vacuum escapes then it is the diaphragm that is bad. this is the silver thing that the hose is connected to. If the vacuum does NOT escape and the breaker plate will not budge then the fault is inside the Dist. . Usually if the vacuum advance stops working it only causes a loss of power when you apply throttle but the engine won't quit running. It will just stumble and then recover. After the engine RPM are up past 1000 the mechanical advance is taking over . On the SUs, where the fuel line connects to the carb. there is a fitting that looks like a ''banjo'' . there is a small vary fine screen in there that could be partially blocked. Since the PO has already done the tank and added a filter before the electric pump , look to these little screens as a possible cause. I think the problem is fuel related. Gary

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I'll go along with the general consensus and say fuel problem. Your inline electric pump may be weak or failing. If you can beg or borrow a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up and see what you're getting for pressure. .

I had the same symptoms but in my case it was rust particles from the old tank clogging up the fuel filters & lines. With a re-done tank this shouldn't be an issue, but I'd replace the fuel filters anyway.

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Well at this point I was certain it is the tank. I had ran a test lead from coil to inside the drivers compartment. It stayed lit as the car died. I did this from both sides of the coil. By the way, I hadn't mentioned the car sounded louder right before it was dying. My friend told me that was a sign of running out of gas.

Meanwhile I had decided to go ahead and change out some 34 year old parts anyway. While I was waiting on the coil and condencer to come in, I sprayed some gunk on the front of the engine, then hosed it off. I had the car started once after that. I then replaced the new coil and condencer,,now it turns over but won't start. I layed the old, conciderably larger coil on top of the new one and hooked it up. Still no start. While I was trying to put the the old condencer back on, the brass sqaure nut fell down inside of the dizzy. I ended up taking out the dizzy and shaking it to retrieve it. I payed attention as to not rotate the dizzy shaft. I reinstalled the old condencer,,and still no start. I now hear a click on the right side of the compartment. I was hearing a click next to right knee before all of this.

Any suggestions???

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My 72 had this problem, I found two things wrong. The wire coming in to the points was bad and it would idle, and run ok but it would shut off around 45 mph. Also I found both fuel screens in the inlet side of the carbs had a lot of trash in them. I removed them and installed inline filters instead, motor would pull 7000 rpm no problem after that.

Good luck

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally replaced the new voltage regulator with the old one,,car runs again. The new one shows signs of overheating on the back at the two resistor looking things. My fuel pump is getting it's hot lead straight from the altanator. I guess the voltage reg was getting hot and dropping out, thus dropping out the fuel pump. The reg I had taken off is skinny compared to the one NAPA sold me. The new one looks like the one in the pic of the Haynes Manual. NAPA is showing a skinny one labled "Transistor type" I'm still waiting on it to come in.

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