This is the extent of the rust in my 77 tank. Can I just neutralize the rust or does this require that I have the tank boiled and coated? Thanks

I would take care of it with POR15.

Here is where you can start. http://www.por15.com/s.nl;jsessionid=0a0002421f432768a4b6962f456d9d60d1e2f26dbfea.e3eSc38LcheTe34Pa38Ta38Mc3b0?sc=2&category=180

Thanks . The rust is not as bad as I thought it would be ,but I started the day with the intention of just checking the screen in the fuel pump. Before I knew it the tank was in my lap.

Thanks . The rust is not as bad as I thought it would be ,but I started the day with the intention of just checking the screen in the fuel pump. Before I knew it the tank was in my lap.

"While I'm at It" it syndrome strikes again!!! If you aren't careful the car will 'suddenly' be in more pieces than you ever thought ... I had "While I'm at It" syndrome a year and a half ago and just go over it before the disease fully took me over!

You should check out this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034&highlight=tank+por-15

One HUGE word of caution, the screen on the intake tube INSIDE the tank will NOT fare well if the POR hardens on it.

In fact, there is no way to reach in and replace it if it should get clogged. If you do DO the POR Tank method, make sure you periodically (as in every few minutes) blast air through the intake tube to keep the in-tank filter clean to ensure that you don't ruin your tank.

There have been a couple of posts regarding this same tank filter.

FWIW

E

Thanks for the reminder on the Por-15 and the link. I searched the other night but didn't come across that one.

Just google "POR-15" . It will get you there. POR isn't the only tank treatment system out there. There is Hirsch, but it seems to be prone to soften when exposed to alchohol which is found in many stations. I did like the Hirsch tank etch. I tried some on some test pieces and it worked very well.

Stay away from Kreme (sp?) as it does not hold up to alchohol either.

My radiator shop reccomended RedKote sealer after a proper boiling and acid treatment.. There is also the top of the line "Renu" franchise. This is the BEST possible route and has reasonable prices.

Here's a site I made for my tank. I had much worse rust that what you have so I had to cut an access hole for sandblasting. This approach to dealing with rust is what Renu uses. The only difference is that I used RedKote for the sealer. With RK you can remove it with MEK if the tank should need reservicing.

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/gastank.html

Pics at bottom. Saftey when working with gas tanks is extremely important! Be careful.

2c

Jim

Thanks for the reminder on the Por-15 and the link. I searched the other night but didn't come across that one.

I gave you this link on my first reply.. All you need to do is click on it.

http://www.por15.com/s.nl;jsessionid=0a0002421f432768a4b6962f456d9d60d1e2f26dbfea.e3eSc38LcheTe34Pa38Ta38Mc3b0?sc=2&category=180

Sorry Jackhammer, I should have been more specific .My second post was to thank you for your reply and I have emailed Por with a few questions. In the later post I was referring to the how to link in 280z1975's post and the reminder from EScalon to blow out the intake tube . And Jim after reading your page I think I'll add the cost of the radiator shop and Por-15 vs. Renu and see how close it is. I'll email some pictures to Renu and see if I can get a quote. Around here I think they still use MTBE which I have to see if that causes problems with any of the products. Not sure if it's alcohol based but it is very toxic to ground water. Thanks for responses and I will post back with the cost comparison between DIY and Renu .

For that amount of rust, Renu may be overkill. However, the process does claim to fully coat inside and out and to restore otherwise shot tanks. It is a franchise service, so dealer performance may vary.

You may want to check into shipping a fuel tank across state borders, that may be the biggest obstacle.

FWIW

E

It's frustrating that they should have added a screen to the inside of the tank. IMHO there are two ways to apply a sealer to it with no chance of screwing up the screen. One is to remove the screen which probably involves cutting an access hole. You'd have to add some new line to make up for cutting off.

The second method came from a previous thread where one guy had the rad shop simply sweat a new line on and plug off the old screen line. This way an access hole would not be required. They just drilled, inserted new line and sweated. An external filter was then used before the pump.

Enrique is right about the small amount of rust. If it were me, with that little tank rust I'd just get some hirsh tank acid and let it do the work on nixing the rust. Sure, in a few years it will be back but who knows what can happen in a few years? (Wrecked, sold etc)

If the perfectionist inside you wants it to be fixed right then by all means Renu or seal it after treating otherwise.

2c

As far as POR clogging the filter, just blow through that vent once or twice while its sitting there--POR before it dries is paint-like, so it easily comes off. I strongly suggest looking at my POR tech article. It's still running awesome, and I had no issues with clogging lines (although I didn't have the same screen). Just make sure you blow through a few times, and that rust you show will be no issue with a POR15 application.