Here's what I'm up against. My car runs like crap, the carbs are way out of tune. I'm planning on just getting it running for now. What I'm left with after it runs is a 37 yr old engine with 115k that most likely needs a rebuild before I can have fun with it, a head than needs to be rebuild so it can reliably run on unleaded, a 37 yr old transmission with 115k that hasn't been rebuilt....again not knowing how strong it is for its age. The car is a numbers matching 70 #6802, so it's early. Considering the cost of a correct stock rebuild vs a swap that would give me more power with a little more cost, is it that bad doing this to such an early car? I'm budgeting ~$3000 on a complete engine/tranny rebuild. I see SR20DET's on ebay for ~$2500 so call it $4000 by the time it's in the car. $1000 isn't that much. So....thoughts? I'm going to be working on the engine over the winter so I'd like to get an idea of what I'm doing now.

Really depends on how much of a purists you are. My personal choice is to keep the #'s matching L24 and warm her over. Well tuned carbs, a mild cam and exhaust coupled with a nice tight suspension could prove to be the mix that you're looking for.

Where abouts in NY are you?

Nate

It's your car, you only need to answer to yourself, so do what you want to it.

But.....keep the old engine just in case you change your mind sometime in the future.

Me personally, I'd prefer to stay with the L-series inline six, even if it wasn't the original one. But I too would want to save the original block for the future.

Hmm, Im with you both ways but check it....,

Some of those Ebay SR20's aren't up to spec. some are but not all.

Even so you still have to buy the

~Transmission (if it doesn't come with the engine)

~Make sure the ECU Harness comes with the engine or walk away!

~Rear Differential,

~Misc. electrical stuff for guages and such,

~Engine mounts and trans tunnel fabrication work (shouldn't be to hard but

your shifter handle hole is going to move back at least 2 inches)

~Last but not least Suspension upgrades if you plan on adding any real

power to the SR20 which will most likely come stock.

(come on now, who can resist more Horse Power

I know SR20's are good for 400HP to 500HP+.

To do it right with all the stock parts I'm thinking maybe $4,000 to $6,000 if your

shopping right and getting average deals for great parts :rambo:

Racer stuff?, well we already know the price for those

I've seen some nice SR20 Z's done and the process ain't hard or expensive

but since your Z is a '70 I say stay with the L24.

..........Hypocrite alert.......My dream Z is a RB26DETT powered 1970 Z, with 600 plus Horse Power :cheeky:

~Z~

i'm a big fan of nissan inline 6s; whether the L-series or RB; but i'm sticking with l-series for now

check out hybridz for when/if you do decide to swap

Hey, if $1000 ain't no big deal, why not shell out $35-40k and buy a brand new never used 350Z and be done with it? (Price may be off, but it should be in the ball park.)

Sell the 240Z to someone who won't be measuring the car based on "37 year old" benchmark and you might get $2-3k for it and you'll only have to pay the balance.

Your $3k estimate for the engine may be a bit shy, based on what you consider the benchmark, so for grins...double it. That's $6k.

Then add in that you'll probaly NOT be satisfied with the interior afterwards, and will want a complete re-do of the interior to include a Bose speaker system and a Blaupunkt stereo.....$6k easy if not closer to $8k

Then you'll need a top of the line paint job and body work.....$10k KA--CHING!!! And that's if your body is perfectly straight with no major dings.

You're into it for $22k before you swat an eyelid.

Definitely go with the 350Z.

2¢

E

You will not be swapping an SR20DET into a 240z for $1000. You still need to run larger fuel lines, electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, modified gas tank, intercooler, intercooler piping, BOV, intake, downpipe, exhaust, etc. You can figure $500 for the intercooler and piping, $600 for the exhaust and muffler, $500 for the fuel items, and $200 for the BOV and intake. I have not even begun to get into the dirty details. This is assuming that YOU do all the work save for the exhaust.