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Code & color don't match


Weasel73240Z

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How common is this? The color code tag on my '73 says the code is 110, which I believe is red. However, the car is clearly 918 orange. I bought the car from the original owner, and she told me it was the original paint, from the dealer. Just by looking at the engine campartment and door/hatch jambs, its pretty clear the car was never red. There is even some orange overspray on the undercoating, which I understand is an indicator of original paint.

Any idea whats up, is the color code tag just mis-labeled, and if so, did this happen a lot?

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I thought that I'd read somewhere that in many cases the Datsun's were undercoated at the dealership, and then touched up with body color around the rocker panels. Hence the overspray on the undercoating of an original paint job.

But again, I've painted cars, and restored many others, and I think I can spot a re-paint as well as anyone. I'm 99.9% sure this is original paint based solely on the door and hatch jambs, inner fenderwells, engine compatment, rear hatch floor, etc. I'm convinced that the paint tag is just mis-labeled, this car was never red.

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The code 110 is called Red, but was more properly described as a very orangy-red, or Persimmon. Over the years, many of these Persimmon color cars have faded to the point that they are indistinguishable from 918 orange.

Similarly, my '71 is 903 Red, which was a much truer red color. Yet it has faded to the point that it can not be told apart from the later persimmon color.

This could explain your problem. Check for an orangy-red color inside the tool compartments.

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I purchased my 73 240 Z from the original owners. The paint is original.

One of the things that confused me when looking at the car for the first time was that the undercoating had overspray. But, the suspension braces and differential braces clearly did not have overspray.

I called Classic Datsun to see if this made sense. The answer was something like this:

1) The car gets undercoated

2) Then it gets painted.

3) The the suspension is attached

In looking at the underside of the car, it is clear that this is the only way it could end up the way it is.

FWIW, my car has 48,000 miles. I have receipts and documentation back to day 1. It is not a 300 pt car but it is a very nice car.

I have layed underneath the car and stared at it in awe of the originality.

My conclusion is that the above process becomes

1) The car gets primered

2a) The holes for the body plugs get taped over

2b) The mounting locations for the suspension get taped over

3) The car gets undercoated

4) The car gets painted

5) The tape is pulled off

6a) Body plugs are installed

6b) Suspension gets attached

7) 34 years later I get to enjoy seeing evidence of the above

Al

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I think Al is on the right track here. If you see anything but body colour under the car, my guess is that either the car has had a) repairs B) secondary rust proof protection c) full respray. You should also be able to see a texture underneath the top coat.

I'm no paint expert but red pigments are some of the most expensive you can use. Any car with a 35 year paint job will fade. But red seems to fade the best especially if left outside to the elements. Wax and a nice garage will help.

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My conclusion is that the above process becomes

1) The car gets primered

2a) The holes for the body plugs get taped over

2b) The mounting locations for the suspension get taped over

3) The car gets undercoated

4) The car gets painted

5) The tape is pulled off

6a) Body plugs are installed

6b) Suspension gets attached

7) 34 years later I get to enjoy seeing evidence of the above

Al

Let me add that at least in '71, step 5 should read, "Some of the tape is pulled off". Much of my car's tape is/was still there, covered with paint and undercoat.
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Let me add that at least in '71, step 5 should read, "Some of the tape is pulled off". Much of my car's tape is/was still there, covered with paint and undercoat.

You are right Arne. I have found tape in several locations.

I had 3 Z's prior to this one that had not lived a good life. Any evidence of the manufacturing process was detroyed with the use and abuse. It makes me smile knowing I can learn something about a car built some 34 years ago, just by taking the time to look underneath.

Sorry, I digress.

Al

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If the car has it's ORIGINAL motor, just get in touch with your local Nissan dealer, give him the ORIGINAL engine number and the body number and they will be able to tell you what the ORIGINAL paint code was. That should remove any doubt from your mind as to the paint CODE being correct or not.

That's what I did with my car.

Rick.

:devious::devious:

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I have no doubt on what color my car is/should be.

i still have the code sticker.

there's a huge difference between what the outside looks, and what the paint looks like where the sun never got to it though, so i can understand why RED would seem ORANGE after 30 years of sun.

i've also noticed that underneath emblems and such, the paint looks better than anywhere else.

i would just go with what the sticker says honestly (or do what bravo did)

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