ouch, i'm overheatin bad

[sblake01]

Niether of my cars have what you described. Sounds like a thermocouple for an electric fan setup. Does you car have electric fan(s)?

[zbane]

Maxwell, Have you by any chance a digital camera? Some photos of the mystery piece might prove beneficial here.

[m4xwellmurd3r]

nope it's the normal fan.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v230/half_breed/My%20Z/?action=view&current=DSC06838.jpg

it's the steel line right under the number 1 cylinder it goes to the metal block (which has a vacuum line hooked up to it) and then it goes back to the thermostat housing.

i found out what it is.

it's a part of the EGR system. It's a thermal vacuum valve/heater housing assembly.

[sblake01]

That's not a vacuum line, it's a coolant line. The housing that the T screws into on the back of the timing cover is not the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing is on the other side of the head. I think you know that but your description is confusing. The line that goes up from the T wraps around the front of the head and is connected with a small hose to the front fitting on the heater housing that resides below the Auxiliary Air Valve. The Thermal Vacuum Valve screws into the back of the heater housing. The rear fitting on the heater housing is connected to the thermostat housing by the other metal line on the intake with a small hose at either end. Unless you're experiencing leaks there, I'd leave those hoses and lines alone as they are a real pain to deal with. BTDT!

[m4xwellmurd3r]

I know. I worded what i said wrong. it has 2 water lines hooked to it, then the thermal vacuum valve is attached to that, which has the vacuum lines attached.

anyways, funny story

i was having problems starting my car because of the fuel issue, so my battery drained

brought it to checkers to charge, waited about 5 minutes.

woman said "sorry, the battery's toast and isn't taking charge"

I think, bs, i just drained it by running the starter too much

so i put it back in the car, let the fuel pump run a little while (bypassed the relay) and started it. it took a little while (because of the fuel issue) and it fired up. I wonder if their charger's meter is busted, because from what she said, it did have and should have 0 charge, when in reality, it WAS taking a charge.

i let it run for about 10 minutes so it would recharge.

the battery IS 3 years old, but, i don't have the money to buy a new battery, when i have other things on this car to fix first. it charges fine. too, despite the original (i think?) alternator.

i'm going to flush everything tomorrow.

is there some sort of solution i could put in (besides a coolant flush) to help break up any corrosion? maybe a solution of distilled water and vinegar??

[WingZr0]

Heh Max you better get some Fusible Link Covers,

the rainy season's coming.

Especially if you have hood vents :ninja:

[EScanlon]

Two items:

First is that your alternator isn't designed to CHARGE your battery, just to maintain the charge and re-charge it from the occasional start and other day-to-day discharges. When you discharge your battery as you did, you need to have it charged. That's why you'll see those battery chargers that you plug into the wall for sale.

What the lady at the parts store was referring to, more than likely, was that it was not taking a charge QUICKLY, and that's what failed their benchmark. This does NOT say that it IS OK, but that her quick evaluation may not have been definitive. See if a buddy has a battery charger and charge the battery overnight, that may get you to your next paycheck.

There ARE solutions available to flush your cooling system, but as with all self-prescribed medicine (whether yours or the car's), you "Takes your chances!".

Two:

There is a possibility that if the radiator is clogged with something, that vinegar ~may~ clear it up, but the vinegar ~may~ wreak havoc on your aluminum head or the radiator or the RTV that the guy used to seal something, or..... Do you see the problem? Go to the store, find the radiator flush solution section and read the precautions (that's why they're put on the bottle) and find out if that product is OK with aluminum. Some products are NOT, while others require a lengthy preparation process, others a lengthy and laborious amount of work..... In short, you may end up spending far, far more for the "band-aid" than simply contacting a radiator shop and asking them how much to do your radiator.

But first, try the thermostat replacement. THEN do the hoses if they're still required. You ~may~ be able to save a buck or two and NOT need the radiator flush, or maybe the radiator flush will save you the problem of the hoses.

Remember, you don't need to totally replace everything all at the same time. It may very well be that with a few $ strategically spent, you keep it running until you have the money.

FWIW

E

[m4xwellmurd3r]

I know. I already delt with the rain once.

So, i've pulled of every hose for the cooling system. and I'm glad i did it tonight. I found that the hoses going to the heater housing were dry rotted, and that one of them had totally eroded away, and was close to eroding through!

I understand what you mean about the battery now.

i was more talking about flushing the engine rather than the rad.

I may have the rad cleaned at a shop, but i'll replace the hoses that are required to be replaced (due to age) then see how it goes. the coolant didn't look too bad, muggy, but all of it was coolant and there wasn't a rusty tinge to it either

i've got ANOTHER question.

what would cause the front right wheel to sit a little over an inch too far forwards? bad t/c bushing?

I know it's not the frame or anything. the car had obviously never been in any sort of accident, but it seems more or less that the bushings are dried out.

[m4xwellmurd3r]

doing all that i did helped a lot, but it's still overheating after a while.

is it possible that the clutch for my fan is worn out and won't lock up correctly?

also, i still have the a/c unit, but i don't need it. the condensor thing is in front of the rad, could that also cause the problem?

[zbane]

When I pulled my radiator in order to change out the water pump, I found quite a few leaves had accumulated in there.

My car was not overheating, however. I suppose that if you had enough stuff accumulated in there, it might have some effect, but not that much.

You may have hit the nail on the head with your thought of the fan clutch, though.

[m4xwellmurd3r]

another possible issue

WHOS BRIGHT IDEA WAS IT TO PUT A CONDENSOR OVER 2/3 THE SIZE OF THE RAD?!?!?!?!

omfg this thing is HUGE. it's about 1 1/2 in thick, about twice the DENSITY of the rad, and it looks like a dual coreish thing (2 rows of copper tubing, tightly packed) not only that, only about 3-4 inches on the sides and bottom of the rad is exposed to free air!! the a/c doesn't work, so i'm rippin that sucker out.

and, is it possible to rebuild the fan clutch?

[sblake01]

The AC condensor won't stop your car from cooling properly. In fact, the larger it is, the more efficient the AC will be. The one in my Z might even be larger than the one you describe and I don't have any cooling issues.