ouch, i'm overheatin bad

[sblake01]

As far as rebuilding the fan clutch, take a look at this article: http://tinyurl.com/28vzv7

But instead of the oil mentioned in the article, I use Kyosho #5000 silicone oil rather than the Toyota silicone oil recommemded in the link. It's available at any hobby store that deals with RC cars, comes in 40ml bottles instead of 18ml, costs less and works just as well.

[EScanlon]

If you DO decide to rip out your AC condenser be careful of any residual Freon that may be in the system.

Just venting it is bad for the Ozone layer (there I've done my part for the eco-system) but breathing in the fumes or having them hit your body is also NOT a good idea.

Stephen is the residen AC expert so I'm hoping he'll chime in with his knowledge and experience. What I'm relating is just what I've heard. I myself have not removed an AC system core.

As far as the overheating is concerned, the small amount of air blockage may be contributing to your overheating, but if the AC compressor pump is still connected via the fan belt to the engine, THAT is contributing a LOT more.

Check for debris on and between the AC condensor and your radiator. Those types of blockages will decrease the effectiveness of your radiator.

FWIW

E

[m4xwellmurd3r]

i'm actually going to take the compressor belt off too.

the ac has 0 pressure in it from what i can tell. I'm just having trouble pulling it off the condensor.

anyways. the a/c doesn't work, so it's dead weight, thus, i'm ripping it out.

my fan isn't seized, i think it might be the opposite if that's even possible (is it?)

[m4xwellmurd3r]

so, i think the fans bad.

i let it get warm, cut it off and it was still really really easy to turn

anyways, my car's having a serious problem that i can't diagnose.

i was driving it to get it nice and warm, and i was accenerating onto the on ramp (turning ramp) and all of a sudden i lost power. I couldn't figure it out at all. i hit the gas and it would bog down, let go and it would backfire a bit. it was acting like it used to (when it ran really lean) except it was running really rich. i currently have the tps unhooked because i need to replace/adjust it, but it never acted like this before. plugging it back in makes no difference, and i'm having problems starting it. (actually i currently can't start it) ugh...

[76Datsun280z]

Check your connections to your thermotime switch and head temperature sensor for corrosion or if there loose which can cause a rich mixture. Another thing to check is continuity on your thermotime switch. Sounds like your plugs are fouled too which may be a reason why it's not starting.

[sblake01]

i'm actually going to take the compressor belt off too.

the ac has 0 pressure in it from what i can tell. I'm just having trouble pulling it off the condensor.

anyways. the a/c doesn't work, so it's dead weight, thus, i'm ripping it out.

my fan isn't seized, i think it might be the opposite if that's even possible (is it?)

I always purge an AC system with my recovery machine before I open any of the connections. Without guages, it's really hard to tell if the system still has traces of freon in it. It is possible for the fan to be low on oil which I guess in a way you could call that the opposite of being seized.

[ktm]

FYI, but I have an intercooler that COMPLETELY covers the front of my radiator. I have a 2 to 3 inch gap between the I/C and the radiator. I am using dual electric fans and my car does not get over 185ish degrees.

[m4xwellmurd3r]

Check your connections to your thermotime switch and head temperature sensor for corrosion or if there loose which can cause a rich mixture. Another thing to check is continuity on your thermotime switch. Sounds like your plugs are fouled too which may be a reason why it's not starting.

unplugged the cold start valve to see if that was the issue. replaced the head temp sensor, that seemed to help a bit. i'm gonig to clean up the head temp sensor plug. I believe it may be an issue with my AFM though. it got so rich that it nearly would die out, then when i got home, it was running so lean it would nearly die out. now i'm having trouble starting it and the fuel pump relay isn't kicking in. if i bypass the relay, it still won't start. I replaced the plugs yesterday actually. so, i'm wondering if the afm is messed up. I've got a refurbished bosch afm, but i'm missing the plate on front to attach it to my filter box. should i just toss it on with no filter to see if it works? would i tmake sense for an afm to go bad by having a weak spring, thus making the ecu think it needs MORE fuel, but then have the carbon traces wear out to the point where the car detects no flow?