rear control arm bushing removal

[madkaw]

I had to do this job this past week so i thought I would post some pics. I had found threads on -how to- on removing the outer bushings but not to many pics. You know pics say a thousand words so I will post some. I also came across a better way (for me anyway) to remove that tough rubber of the old bushings. I took a 1" hole saw and it fits over the inner part of the bushing perfectly to use as a guide.It also takes out most of the rubber from the outer shell which helps you see what your doing better when you start cutting. The hole saw rips thru the rubber in 30 seconds and no burning rubber.A side note: I would highly recommend leaving the inner bushing bolts installed while you are working on the control arm. The reason being, is if the control arm -somehow - slips out of the vise, it will not fall on the floor and possibly damage the threads on the outer bushing.

The outer bushing shell is just hard careful work. I would NOT recommend any power tools(i.e. sawzall) to cut the bushing shell-too much chance of cutting too much!! Take a file or sander and clean off the edge of the bushing so you will see accurately the cut you are making.This would be a good time to spray some penetrant on the bushing to help it slide off easier later. I like to make atleast 2 cuts if not three to really weaken the bushing. Then I work the area between the cuts and start peeling back the bushing until it finally gives way.

I hope this helps out someone with a job that can be very frustrating.

s

__________________

Steve,

9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , 3.54 r200(presently)

[yor5150]

I thought about using a hole saw but it wasn't until after burning the old bushings out of the mustache bar that I did. It was a pain to get rid of the last of the rubber boogers. The other rubber bushings weren't as bad. After heating them up they slid out fairly easy. It was the mustache bar bushings that caused me the most grief. It's nice to know that the hole saw works.

[madkaw]

I haven't tried this method on the moustache bar but i will be soon. I didn't like burning the bushings out because of the smell and the fire hazard, but I know there are some pyro freaks out there. Plus the clean up is easy. I see by your signature you are an expert on bushing removal:)

[beandip]

Spindle pin puller makes the job simple and you can do it in the car and reuse the old pin. If you live in the SALT belt there have been two members the puller wouldn't work for. But out of more than 25 that is not bad. Do a search on spindle pins removal. Gary

[V8-240Z]

It was a little smokey and smelly when I did it. I positioned the burning bushing over a 5 gallon bucket 1/2 full of water and the burning rubber just fell into the water and went out. Safe and simple as it gets.

[madkaw]

Beandip,

I wasn't talking about spindle removal, I was talking about removing bushings!And I used the pin puller and it failed on one side but it worked on the other side. Dave got me going again and I would recommend the puller to anyone attempting that job.

[HuD 91gt]

Thanks for the pictures madkaw.   I used a a holesaw, then fire method on the moustache bar.  What a mess.   For clean up I tried a few things, but the wire wheel worked best. I'd try a different method next time.

I have my control arms being painted in a 2 part epoxy as we speak, it looks like your method here will work without screwing up my new paint.  Should have removed the bushings first.