no heat

[pimpjester]

Ok i have searched and found nothing that helps i have a 71' 240z the hoses are hooked up looks like they are correctly done i have tried moving all cable operated doors for the heat vent floor defrost. I have loosened hoses and checked for air in lines but all hoses are full off water.

I appreciate the time

Thanks

[Hrududu]

Is the core bocked or perhaps the valve is stuck shut?

[pimpjester]

the valve looks like it is just a pass through T and the core i will check tomorrow

[EScanlon]

the valve looks like it is just a pass through T and the core i will check tomorrow

emphasis mine.

The underlined text may be more of an indication of your problem than anything else. That valve controls how much water is allowed into the heater core. If it's inoperative, no heat will be forthcoming.

One of the wires in the control panel should actuate that valve.

2¢

E

[pimpjester]

[Maddos]

No, you need to look at the other side of the firewall (inside the car) where the hoses come through. This is where you'll find the regulator. Try to move the plunger in and out.

[pimpjester]

ok i reached back next to firewall and the regulator u all are talking about feels real loose like its not doing anything is there a bypass for it or do i need to buy a new on i am not worried about adjusting it i want to leave it set for heat only no reason for the cold function just defrost and toes in winter is all.

[Walter Moore]

The valve on the passenger side of the firewall is actuated by the cable from the dash lever that says "OFF" "TEMP" "HEAT". you should be able to see it if you crawl under the dash. Have someone move the lever while you look for motion. My first suspicion is that the cable is broken, or that someone disconnected it because the heater core is leaking.

Heater cores can plug, but the typical failure mode is to rupture and leak.

[pimpjester]

heres the weird part i had a problem with my fan a few months back and had heat good heat then, but now nothing my fan came unplugged then i have plugged it back in since and all i get is cold air.

So i am sure that its not bypasses due to rupture or leak.

now i bet u can understand why i am clueless

thanks

[EScanlon]

Luke;

Your response may not seem funny to you, but it is hilarious. Yes, I can understsand why you're clueless....because (and sorry for this) you appear to be.

An ELECTRICAL problem (unplugged fan) would have a hard time being a LIQUID COOLANT (closed water valve) problem unless you have some very VERY serious problems at play.

Now, don't take this as a flame, it isn't meant to be.

That you had a problem with an electrical connection some time back and you needed to trace and re-connect the fan may be the exact moment when you inadvertently pulled on the cable that actuates the water control valve.

That valve is to the right of the heater housing and just to the left of the blower motor. It is not at all farfetched to think you may have closed the valve by simply pushing down on the lever (if the cable isn't attached) and/or forced the cable off the lever by pulling/pushing on the cable sleeve.

Look at the heater plenum that sits atop the transmission tunnel from the passenger footwell area. You should see a water valve to which one of the hoses coming from the engine compartment is connected to. The other hose will be connected to one of the heater core tubes sticking out of the heater box. The other heater core tube will be connected to the other end of the heater control valve.

If that valve is CLOSED, you are not getting ANY water (hot OR cold) flowing through the heater core. That valve should be actuated by the cable denoted TEMP on the heater control panel.

Check out the suggestions you've been given and then see if that doesn't correct the problem. Don't forget that the engine needs to be warm for the heater core to blow warm air once you get the valve open.

HTH

E