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What combo is good with 9 pound Flywheel?


WingZr0

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I got my '77 280Z Ruby running for two days recently and noticed when I got to

3,000 RPM the engine RPM's would jump and rev freely as if I had the

clutch in while on the gas.

Slowing down to 2'800 RPM the car would begin to pull like normal,

but when I try to go past 3 grand again in 2nd gear, the feeling of

torque goes away and the engine revs again.

Went to the Tranny shop and the Trans Mech put the car in reverse, backed halfway out the

parking space, stopped, went to 1st gear and skooted back up and said,

"Yeah, your clutch is gone. I don't even need to test drive it".

He was mainly refering to the clutch disc as having no grip left.

Well with that being said I need to buy a new clutch (disc) and most likely Flywheel too.

I'm looking at getting a 9 pound Chromemoly Light Wieght Flywheel and like to know

what clutch will be good for this kind of flyhweel as I hear the stock clutch is not

good with this set up.

Heres a photo of the Flywheel although I don't know who makes it yet.

e2b5_1.jpg

~Z~

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It depends on the use you plan for your Z. A standard weight flywheel is good for around town/down the street driving. A light-weight unit is desired for autocrossing and racing, while a heavier unit is preferred for 1/4-mile racing.

For general use a standard unit will serve you quite nicely.

Frank

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It depends on the use you plan for your Z. A standard weight flywheel is good for around town/down the street driving. A light-weight unit is desired for autocrossing and racing, while a heavier unit is preferred for 1/4-mile racing.

For general use a standard unit will serve you quite nicely.

Frank

THYANX FRANK ^_^

How about clutch disc though, do they have to match up with the flywheel type being used?

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I wouldn't. I've read a few too many bad things about Centerforce products for Z cars. Then again, most of the problems were related to higher horsepower (275+ whp) builds.

I went with the ACT setup myself and used a Fidanza flywheel.

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Would a slipping clutch disc cause engine over heating?

Just something I noticed when I last got the car back to park it,

it was running hot at redline 250F and was staying there for

about 5 minuts or so.

For the 2 days It was running temps used to go to about 200F before

the Themostat opened and brought the temps back down to the halfway mark

at around 160F I believe.

Also was told from the seller the Cromemolly Flywheel above is made by

Nakamura Racing and wieghs in at around 7.245 lbs.

I ran a searce for Nakamura and on the only company site I found they drag and

race motorcycles in Japan.

On other search results I see turner cars and such listing Nakamura items

as some of the gear :ermm:

If I had the money, I would personally go with a

"CenterForce 2" clutch disc and pressure plate. Look it up and go from there.

Dave.

Still researching and let ya know final results.

I hear the peddle travel has go all the way to the floor with these.

My current set up only needs 4 inches to totally disengage the clutch.

Other words if I place my toes on the clutch peddle I only have to flick my ankle down while

kepping the pivot of my heal in the same place.

Don't know if this is normal for all '77 280's or Z's in general as I never driven

another before and still don't know what "race" mods or upgrades where done by the PO's

I wouldn't. I've read a few too many bad things about Centerforce products

for Z cars. Then again, most of the problems were related to higher horsepower (275+ whp)

builds.

I went with the ACT setup myself and used a Fidanza flywheel.

ACT is the largest used company in the import car scene today, According to thier ad in

Dsport :rambo:.

Also I've read in other forums for S30Z cars and such that the Centerforce 2 clutch dic was only

good upto 300 Wheel Horsepower.

Regardles of car I suppose as the post usually claim grip material as almost gone within a very

short amount of time on rides cracking the 350 and up HP rating.

Will keep researcing and hopefully provide some findings for use as I've just dicovered that

theres differences in meterial qualities and characteristics like Chromemolly,

Carbon, Organics and so on....

Theres an article in this months Dsport (November 2007 Issue 59)

on CARBONETIC's Carbon Series twin and triple disc clutch systems good upto

1,100 or 1,400 HP :D:)

Describes roughly the pros and cons of carbon clutches too, so I'll read this aswell

and hopefully dig up the Dsport buyers guide to clutches while at it.

~Z~

~Z~

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I put a CF II in my 3.0 Z. It works just fine. I did have a bit of trouble getting enough pedal to release the clutch disc. I have to use the clutch to get the 'fuzz' of the disc and change my linkage to get it to work. It works fine now that eveything is seated in.

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If you don't plan to actually race the car on a regular basis I would strongly suggest not going to a light flywheel and multi disc clutch. I can tell you from past experience that combo is rather tough for everyday driving.

Whats harsh bout it?

She is my daily after all though and I was only thinking since the works gotta be done I might as well put race stuff in while I'm at it.

Would still like to keep it comfy though.

I read the "launching" out of neutral can be harse but what causes that?

Really don't plan on doing to much racing besides track days and leaving them on the streets (See Speeding :ninja:). But since the rainy seasons coming I might not be doing much of that in to long.

Will my pedal travel change or can I keep it the same?

I'm afraid even if I go with stock I'll losse that "Flick of the Ankle" clutch pedal.

Like I said, I'm not sure it thats a normal way a 280Z clutch pedal is supposed to travel or not but I would like to keep it that way.

~Z~

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For me, and this is just my opinion, high preformance clutches and light flywheels were fun when I drove the car hard but were really jerky in everday and especially in stop and go traffic. I drive hard now and then but not often enough to warrant having that kind of setup. You can adjust the free play in the clutch pedal as well as use a stronger return spring. I don't really understand the 'launching out of neutral' thing unless it refers to automatic transmissions. You can't launch a stick out of neutral. 'Race stuff' to me is what it implies and I don't 'race' so my opinions are pretty much based on that.

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I don't really understand the 'launching out of neutral' thing unless it refers to automatic transmissions. You can't launch a stick out of neutral.

Oh LOL, Jus my wierd way of saying gettinthe car to go in 1st ^^

Thyanx for the info on the pedal free play and return spring info.

I'm really not looking for the put your body wieght into it pedal effort or the NHRA Top Fuel launchy'ness but something more of mild upgrade for quicker revs for higher RPM's when I do a cam swap.

A balance between that and something that won't stress me out when I'm trying to cruise or break the passengers neck :nervous:

I spose I have alotta reading to do :smoke:

~Z~

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