I've decided to turn my Z into a vintage racer instead of a total restoration. Not sure on the mech. specs, but that's irrelevant at this time. My car as it sits looks to be in very good condition. It needs the gas door area cut out and I've got a replacement for that. There's some slight bubbling on the C pillars, appears to be due to bondo. Other than that, there is no rust showing. I'd rather not have to completely tear the car apart. I know I need to get the door jambs/engine bay for the color change, but as far as matching the trunk, I could care less. My question is, should I just do the minimum amount of work necessary for a color change or should I completely strip the car and get every piece of bondo out? Remember, this is going to be a race car...pretty paint doesn't make it go faster.

Nope, But gutting the car and giving it a complete paint job does give it

authenticity I think ( depending on how the inspiration car was painted )

A pic of the car your thinking of copying would be nice

I read in one of my Car Craft mags sometime ago that theres a paint, or lower grade of,

thats made for race cars which is supposedly cheaper than that Concours stuff.

Well the article was about how to paint your car at home, if I remember right,

and was saying to ask yourself what was the purpose of your car befor you decide to paint.

Is it for show, street daily driver or race.

This determined what grade quality and price of paint you should use basically

sayin race cars should use the stuff that is good quality but not wallet breaking.

It would make sense considering all the fender benders and

paint swapping that occours.

Lose the Bondo and whatever you do

DON'T GO TO MACCO

Lose the Bondo and whatever you do

DON'T GO TO MACCO

There's a blanket statement that is very unfair. There are Maaco shops that will do fine work. Just don't expect that type of work for the cheap prices that they advertise.

Don't rule out your local Maaco franchise until you've talked with them.

There's a blanket statement that is very unfair. There are Maaco shops that will do fine work. Just don't expect that type of work for the cheap prices that they advertise.

Don't rule out your local Maaco franchise until you've talked with them.

Arne is correct. There are several members here who have had excellent experiences with Maaco.

My mistake

It was more of a joke than fact, I always heard bad things like

Macco was cheap and not the "Best" and was 1 year only paint.

That and the only prices I heard were from the $200 to paint the whole car commercials.

Didn't know they did other kinds of paint though besides those commercials so I

learned something new today.

My Z buddy Trav, who does all his own work and also paints Chevells and stuff,

said I can expect at least $1600 alone on meterials and paint.

And that was with a discount.

Not all Maaco shops will do the better type work, some only want to crank out the generic repaints that they are famous for. But since they are all franchises and independently owned, some shops will do the type of work that most of us want as well. For example, there's a member her (jackboxxx) who actually owns a Macco franchise in Moreno Valley, who will do top notch work (from what I've heard). Some of the background is in this thread.

And you are right - good materials alone will be expensive. I'm preparing to get the rust cut out and new paint on my yellow 240Z, and that is going to cost over $3500 without the engine compartment. Nothing fancy, just decent quality work in the factory color. And if your local Maaco is going to do that type of work for you, expect it to cost about the same as any other good shop would charge.

Pretty paint won't make it go faster - but you will know the complete extent of any bondo and rust if you strip it clean...which allows you to repair the rust areas - expecially if they are structural, and you're going racing...check underneath - not only the floors etc, but also the subframing for the rear diff and suspension...

Gordon Garrard

Osgoode, ON

If your intent is to use it as a race car, first decide what class you are going to compete in! Then aquire a current rule book for that class and let it dictate what will be required as far as safety upgrades and what is allowed in the modification department. If I were you, I'd definitely have the chassis completely inspected for structural integrity! Safety first!!!

Tom

If its a race car why not just wrap it

http://www.competitiongraphics.com/race.wraps.html

I'm making a clone of Brock Yates' Car and Driver Z. I've yet to find a pic of it anywhere online. I don't care about the cost of anything so I won't be using a chain body shop. I'm using the highest end restoration shop around for any metal work. The car is white with a black hood. White for the most part looks the same whether it's rolled on for $40 or gets a $10k paint job. I'm a decent painter so I may even wind up doing it myself.

Structurally, the car is 100% solid. Below is a pic of the only rust on the underside of the car. It will be getting a roll cage as that was in the original car.

Do you mean Brock Yates or Pete Brock?

Pete Brock's 240Z, driven by John Morton won the SCCA 1970 Championship. It was number 46 with a white body/red hood/top. If it was Pete's car, I can send you a .jpg of the bragging poster.

Regards,

Frank

BKelly - Where in New York state are you? Brock Yates lives in upstate NY, and runs a tavern in a small town. If nearby - you could visit and ask if he had any information he would be willing to share... see http://www.tizcc.ca/lap.htm

Regards

Gordon Garrard

Osgoode, ON