my thoughts are just if there decent pressure at the injector shouldnt it at least try to fire? it doesnt. the spark plugs have no gas on them after tryin to start but theres gas behind the injector.

oh sorry, I left and I didn't know that you were returning to the forum..

about shocking the injecttor, just unplug it and directly shock it from a battery terminals using two regular wires, but be careful, this can harm your coil in the injector, it is just a solenoid which doesnt like to be fed with a higher rated voltage.. because it normaly works under pulses with lower voltage dropped by voltage dropping resistors behind your windshield reservoir..

don\t worry, you'll need new imjectors mostly when they start leaking, but they don't fail that easy, they can get jammed maybe and after few pulses they get released..

BEFORE YOU DO ALL THAT, Sblake said a correct thing, don't jump steps, check the fuel pressure first, while I think that if there is no Gasoline smell from the exhaust it can be a clear sign that there is no fuel in the cylinder..

you can use a help of a friend, let him crank the engine and listen to one of the injectors weather it makes a knocking sound (very slight using a screwdriver attached to it and on the other side at your ear)

what I assume, if the spark firing order is messed up with, there should be firing at least if there was some fuel left in the cylinders, maybe black smoke if it was too rich..

sorry if my english wasn't that good, I'm trying my best to help.

the is just an opinion, it shouldnt solve your problem. it happended to my friend once and cured now after shocking, I rather not do it if you are not aware of it, you might damage the coil inside.. be carefull..

cheers..

That's why I use a 9 volt battery to test injectors. The EFI system uses dropping resistors to reduce the voltage to the injectors. I would never hit them with 12 volts.

that is wise Sblake, I agree.. but how much is the voltage drop across the supply of the injectors? if it waqs 9 also then I think I would go for a bit more to strike them a bit harder, with care for sure..

but beleave me, I tried it with 12V it worked but I do also not recommend it unless it was the last solution.

These are my home made injector test tools. They're simple, they work and I've never had any problems with them. The one on the left is self-explanatory and the one on the right if you remove your injector connector, place it on the injector and place the connector on top, it will show if you have a signal to the injector while cranking or running the engine.

crafty tools my friend you should bring em over , i mean hell you live like 45 minutes away i am from apple valley well i got the fuel rail off but it got dark so i couldnt continue working. ill be back at it again tomorrow and ill update everyone then. thanks everyone.

Corrao,

man you are going so fast with the case.. you should've checked the signal coming to the injectors first as Stephen said..

but if you are enjoying it, then have fun with it, but don't go too exited and unbolt the headLOL

kidding..

good luck.

Don't unbolt that head ! !

I praticed on a tow yard Z taking a engine apart and took off the fuel rail etc. etc. etc...

But when I went to take the Head off every last one of those bolts broke.

AS IN IN HALF !

Don't know what I could've done different not to break them but those bolts holding that

head on were weak as fragile concret.

~Z~

WingZr0,

man take it easy:classic:, no body is unbolting the head, I was talking ironically about unbolting the head

Truth is that at this point he shouldn't have unbolted anything. Testing would have been the proper way to go. Ripping things apart before you know what the problem is only leads to spending unnecessary $$$$$.

  BuDavid said:

WingZr0,

man take it easy:classic:, no body is unbolting the head, I was talking ironically about unbolting the head

I know I'm jus making he didn't actually do it cause I was gonna take off my own head by praticing on and hopefully replacing it with the one of the three N42's at the tow yard.

That is untill I saw how easy those bolts broke :bandit:

  sblake01 said:

Truth is that at this point he shouldn't have unbolted anything. Testing would have been the proper way to go. Ripping things apart before you know what the problem is only leads to spending unnecessary $$$$$.

Blakes right on that.

Testing the Fuel presure should of came first.

At least that way you could either rule out or confirm the

fuel preasure as the problem.

If the injectors are still attached to the rail you can put the rail back on the car maybe and test the fuel preasure then.

The test gauge is about $35 - $40 at any auto part store and is easy to

hook up.

But what is it your trying to do now exactly since you got the rail off?

I would give solid advice If I could but without testing the preasure first we could be going after a "Phantom Problem" blind now when the test could of lead us to the cause.

Before you do anything else you should wait and hopefully the more

experienced members here can steer you right or suggest what to do.

All is not lost though

~Z~

im takein the rail off to get the injectors out. the hoses are stiff and would have needed to be cut to get them out otherwise. and im savin myself buying new hoses buy just get the rail up 3 inches