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hi Guys,

well, i have managed to snap up the 240K GT that was recently on ebay.. It is a 72 model (complied in australia 1/73) and it is build number 280! i know it wasn't probably the smartest buy.. considering my other project.. but i just can't resist sometimes!

unfortunately the car was a bit of an ongoing "project" and most of the bits of the car have been lost including the original engine, gearbox, bonnet, rear light panel, dash cluster, seats.. it was destined to have some form of V8 in it, but i am looking to fix her up and try and bring her back to a somewhat original look. the car is moslty stripped at the moment, so i am looking at fixing the remaining rust, get her painted again, and then put her all back together using some of the other parts i have lying around.

from what i can gather, the rear lights are original, it has the GT door cards, dash top is in good condition (though probably re-covered), and the Diff looks original (no idea what condition it is in though).

from what i can find, the only other really functional difference between the GT's and the GL's was that it came with a MPH/KMH speedo..

If anyone finds one of these in their travels, or knows of the whereabouts of one.. can you please let me know!!

Kent

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My GL (1/74 compliance plate) was doctored with GT trim. It has the 240K GT door trim badges, and the 4 speed GT gear knob, as shown above (even though its got a 5 speed).

My car was actually a 4spd, and i no that it hasnt been doctored, i guess its just one of those things, we will have to get the papers from nissan and find out exzactly what the go is!


My car was actually a 4spd, and i no that it hasnt been doctored, i guess its just one of those things, we will have to get the papers from nissan and find out exzactly what the go is!

Sounds like yours may be a true GT could it just have a different ID plate on it? back in the day it would've been easy to rebirth a 240k I guess.

Sounds like yours may be a true GT could it just have a different ID plate on it? back in the day it would've been easy to rebirth a 240k I guess.

I doubt the rebirth, as it still has its orriginal Licence plates on it aswell, i dont know one of those freak things i guess

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Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you in the future Kent. I noticed your other K buried in stuff in the background in one of the pictures, that is really naughty :finger::disappoin if they get covered in stuff you can add a year to the rebuild easy.

Mastadd is there any chance that Nissan rebadged and plated yours after it arrived here as a GT so it could be sold as a GL instead of a GT?

so that explains why it is taking so damn long with that thing :D

in all serious, i have been trying to put off stripping the sound deadener off the bottom of that car.. i want to por it up so that there is no chance of rust in the future.. then she is all ready to paint.. but that won't be until march i am afraid :(

i am hoping the GT looks worse than it actually is.. other than the lower rear panel (someones botched 1st attempt by the looks of it!), most of the rust spots seem fairly easy to fix.

as for the official GT's.. Art (or others with complianced Australian GT's?), what is the highest VIN that you have? maybe we can estimate the VIN number that marked the GT/GL changeover.. other than the compliance tag, is there a production date on the car? (i expected to see it on the black datsun tag, or is the compliance tag date the production date rather tahn the compliance date?), did the C110's start being produced in 72 or 73?

You need to sandblast the bottom, it will be just a two day job if you hang the car like I did. I'm really sorry we couldn't get your car at my mates farm to do it, his family is really funny about strangers coming over as they have a lot of valuable stuff sitting in the yard and the unlocked shed. If I was you I wouldn't try to get under on my back and strip it as you would be better off just paying someone to do it. The time it would take would be quite a lot and would probably be cheaper to spend that time at work and put the cash you earn towards someone who could do it for you.

The main benifit I saw from sandblasting was the ability to get into the rails, when you spray up the rails don't use por as you waste heaps of paint trying to make sure you get it everywhere. I think I ended up with about 3 litres of por on my garage floor.

I'm really looking forward to the day when we can line your RB up against my 318 at the lights. Any idea how much your engine & box weigh? I've ended up only about 100 pounds more than the L24.

P.s prepare for the worst they always rust from the inside out, I had two little spots showing but the sills were totally rooted. Looks to me like your in the same boat with the sills...at least on one side.

yeah i certainly see the advantage of blasting the bottom.. i was just going to chip the bits off that i could, then por over the top.. but this won't guarentee that rust isn't already there (although it was quite good already).

anyone know a sandblaster in Western Sydney? i unfortunately don't have the room to do it myself :(

yeah.. i am not too sure how much heavier the engine will be.. although i would imagine that my car will end up being a little bit lighter than yours.. i had better get that GT30R turbo sooner rather than later then!

Kent,

Just a thought from outside the box, have a chat to a concrete or brick cleaning surface contractor. They often use portable sand blasters that you might be able to hire. I have done it before and it's that best thing ever - it's like spray painting in reverse ! Just keep the sand grains really fine, or better yet use beads, otherwise you end up with a surface like the moon. Oh and remove all glass from the car (and the near by neighbourhood )

I actually rang a "soda blaster" on friday afternoon (couldn't find a sand blaster anywhere in sydney online or in the yellowpages).. they wanted $1900 just to do the bottom.. right...

anyways.. i posted the question on another forum, and they advised that even sandbalsting doesn't work very well for tar type sound deadener.. and the best method is by chipping it off (maybe with dry ice), and tehn scrubbing with kerosene.. that is going to be fun! :) i may still give sand blasting a go.. but i can't think of anywhere that i would have the room to be able to do it and not have to worry about the mess etc..

i also noticed on the weekend that my GT doesn't have the front tow loop on the tie rod mount.. interesting.. the car also has/had A/C (not sure if originally fitted, i presume so) there are a few major spots that need to be repaired from rust though (including the floor pan around the drivers side seat rear mounts, and the usual spots (sills, rear qtr etc.).. i am really going to have to get better at welding i think..

Dry ice?? Kero?? don't even think about it, that's crazy talk and would turn out to be the worst day of your life. Imagine being under a car wiping it with kero.

Enviro strip is out of business and won't hire his equipment, bloody murphys law. You can use kennards hire and get a 4000psi water jet with sand blaster attachment for $258 for 24 hours. The water coming out at the same time would make a mess but would stop the dust issue letting you do it in your driveway.

I swear on my K that sandblasting does take off all the tar type of soundeadener. I had to leave a bit on mine as the guy who I loaned the kit off was standing next to me waiting to get it back as I finished the rear. I can't say if the kennards kit would do it as quick or with as little damage but the guy I called said it "should". Call 9318 2777 allow 2 days and $300 for blasting media.

Hope this helps.

P.s is this sounddeadener your taking off the same stuff you put on a while back? and if so are you doing this just to get por on the bottom?

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