Fuel injection Port BLOCKED SOLID ! ! !

[e_racer1999]

so THAT's why i didn't understand your drawing!

man, that's crazy that the car actually RAN with that gasket on there!

[WingZr0]

so THAT's why i didn't understand your drawing!

man, that's crazy that the car actually RAN with that gasket on there!

ROFLROFLROFL

ROFLROFLROFL

Thats the best laugh I had so far this morning :laugh:

Thanx for that

[GreenZZZ]

Did you have any gas smell? The injector should have been pushing the gas somewhere. Doubt it was totally sealed off. Interesting problem...

[WingZr0]

Did you have any gas smell? The injector should have been pushing the gas somewhere. Doubt it was totally sealed off. Interesting problem...

No. No gas smell but the Spark plugs on 1 through 5 were seriously fouled out.

They are stock NGK and only have less than a 1,000 miles on them and are

only 2 months old.

They were burnt looking and Black with the ingiting tips a dark Blackish Grey.

I'll get some photos of those today and put them on Photobucket.

Number 6 Spark plug was bone dry the whole time and a little Black you can

say from ignition sparking with out getting wet from any kind of gas.

I was getting some back firing once in a while which sounded like it was

coming through the AFM on start up.

I believe thats been known to happen sometimes no?

Also backfiring rarely in the Tailpipe if I was pumping the gas Racer Style

The biggest one I had I was going under a 20ft wide

railroad bridge at night when I clutched in and clucthed off in 3rd,

sounded like a BOMB went off :rambo:

The preasure in the fuelrail I think is backed up since the gas has

nowhere to go in #6.

I assume this was whats cousing the hesitation on my tach along with a

timing issue being set up to run with this jacked up gasket.

When I floor the gas the revs don't take off and clime like mad and acclerate,

it just cruises it way up to speed and at 3,500 RPM my Valvetrain starts to

rattle.

I have yet to take it to 4,500 other than by accident from down shiftting to

early couple times.

Nothing a valve adjustment can't handle I hope.

Minor stuff campared to the head job I was quoted which I now don't believe I

need.

Still might take the head off on my own while I'm this far into it and give that

a look over with HKS head gasket from MSA, but they come in 1.2mm and 2.0mm thickness

~Z~

[TomoHawk]

It looks like the intake gasket is in the way. I could see all the way into the head when I had my injectors out.

Would you mind getting a photo of what you can see inside the port withthe intake manifold off?

thxZ

[Bob Maggio]

Well,if the cylinders in question were not getting fuel,how did they get fouled? They should be VERY white from being way too lean.I'm afraid you may have "other" problems.Bob

[TomoHawk]

Also, if the ports are blocked that much, how ever did the engine run?

[WingZr0]

Well,if the cylinders in question were not getting fuel,

how did they get fouled?

They should be VERY white from being way too lean.

I'm afraid you may have "other" problems.Bob

Well to answer your question #6 FI Port is completly blocked and the Spark Plug is

Whitish Grey as you say it would look for #6.

Spark Plug numbers 1 through 5 are Black almost like charchol with a little Oil

on them also :errm:.

FI Ports 1 through 5 are getting as much gas as the hole would allow in

the 2nd picture of post #7.

Also, if the ports are blocked that much,

how ever did the engine run?

She ran, but in all honesty it really sounds like a truck on shut off

but F1 race car like when Reving the engine.

All in all it sounds pretty normal when driving over all, but rough.

I know I know wierd huh :tapemouth

Getting to the meat and potatas, the Timming I was told was WAY advanced

and the Idle Screw I believe is set to REALLY RICH obviously to

componsate for the like of both gas and air on the intake from the wrong gasket being used.

Idle is set at around 1,100 to 1,300 RPM using the Idle screw.

Was Over heating really bad and only took about 20 minutes befor she

Redlined on the heat making me pull over and park.

So I wne to Change the Thermostat and lo and behold there wasn't one in the housing

to begin with which was causing the overheating.

After installing the new Thermostat she would claim to normal temp of 180 degrees

then hit 200 degrees where the Tempeture needle would

drop back down to the halfway mark on the temp gauge.

Efectively solving my overheating a few days untill the last time I drove her

where the Temp went to Redlne and stayed there just 5 minutes befor I got

back home.

One of the PO's changed the AFM, Throttle Body, and Oil or

Water Pump (can't remember witch but I Have the parts which were in the

hatch along with a Victoria British catolog)

I believe this was the same PO who had the Interior redone with all new

vinyle, headliner, Car Repainted with engine and tranny out,

body work down proffesionally from top to underside,

and also had the Engine rebuilt by Marysville Machine Shop.

I'm not sure if the Machine Shop actually reassembled the engine or not

but it seems the PO was trying to figure out what was wrong with it and gave up

parking the car in his garage for 2 years.

Who ever it was still put on the wrong Intake/Exhaust gasket but if it

was the shop it lived up to it's namesake, Sorryville Machine Shop,

just like the city it's in :mad:

I should know more once I get the head off but I'm not sure what I

would find.

I already Cracked the EGR tube halfway through trying to unbolt it from

the Intake and Exhaust manifold.

The upper 2 bolts are moving but they don't seem to be going either up

or down when turning them counter clockwise.

Using Vice Grips and a Hammer to turn them cause they won't

move by hand, hence the crack

Going back in a day or so to finally get the Manifolds off and maybe get

the head done in the same day.

The new correct Intake and Exhaust Gasket should of arrived at my

friends house but I'll need to order a new Head Gasket while I'm at it

so I'm looking at the HKS version from MSA.

I figure I might aswell replace this and look at the head now or risk

still having problems and having to do this work all over again.

Sheesh.... :hurt: :rambo:

~Z~ Man Up!

[Maddos]

Just to clarify, missing your thermostat won't cause overheating, only a faulty thermostat which sticks closed will give that problem. No thermostat at all will only hurt cold running as it will take longer for engine to reach normal temp. I'd say engine labouring on about 2/3 of it's cylinders could be causing the overheating. One of my engines which had a couple of buggered spark plugs ran similar to how you describe, chaff cutter at low revs, but once revs are able to climb over say 2500 would seem to run great due to the momentum the engine now has.. Good luck with it.

[WingZr0]

Just to clarify, missing your thermostat won't cause overheating, only a faulty thermostat which sticks closed will give that problem. No thermostat at all will only hurt cold running as it will take longer for engine to reach normal temp. I'd say engine labouring on about 2/3 of it's cylinders could be causing the overheating. One of my engines which had a couple of buggered spark plugs ran similar to how you describe, chaff cutter at low revs, but once revs are able to climb over say 2500 would seem to run great due to the momentum the engine now has.. Good luck with it.

Thyanx Maddos

I was told having no Thermostat would let the collant run to fast through the

radiator not giving it enough time to cool off befor returning to the engine.

I'm guesing someone thought it was stuck and took it out thinking

that was the problem like you said aswell.

But you are right though, 2 3rds cylinders does not an inline six make.

I had two plugs come loose one morning ontop of this and boy did I feel

like Grandma.

After pluggin back up, was back to normal.

Either way I'm shooting the PO who sold her to me in the leg

and asking for a refund, AND I'm keeping the car

No, seriously, ... if I ever see 'em in the street theres gonna be a fight :cheeky:

Well good news is when I buy another Z I know what to look for :cross-eye

~Z~

[WingZr0]

I'm ready to tackle this but I one quick question,

should I slap on the Intake/Exhaust gasket now and see how she runs or

should I wait and take the head off now and risk strippingt/breaking the

valve cover bolts in half?

I was trying to take a Valve Cover off one the tow yard Z's and all of the bolts broke in half and

the last one was so stuck it rounded off.

I'm not sure if I want to risk that with my Z trying to get to

the head yet.

I have now problem having to take the FI rails off again if I do need to and

removing the the Head since I still plan on getting the HKS head gasket

anyway.

Just thought I get some of your opinions on this since it

came to my mind today.

Heading out some time in the morning to finish the job

~Z~

[e_racer1999]

i would just swap the gasket. i bet a lot of your problems will be solved