Scary pics.

[Triari]

I just joined the forum and have found some very useful information. I figure I can contribute something, if only these scary pics of what I found.

I have this 73 Z car in my garage which my father gave to me just a short time ago. After some work he had done to the motor he decided that he would just give it to me. My father has what I call "old man car syndrome" He has more cars than he knows what to do with.

The car runs and manages to idle ok when I have it pulling fuel from a gas can but as soon as I reattached the lines the fuel dries up. Searching these forums I found many a post with similar conditions. I got underneath the car and found the fuel lines. (At one time I think there must have been an electric pump present as I have noticed what appears to be a mount and wiring.) There was a splice job done on the fuel line and I thought this would be a good spot to take apart the line and see If I could not blow some air thru the line to maybe try and clear it. I expected fuel to leak from either end, it did'nt what did come out was this ball of tar from my tank. Pics tell it all. So I know that I will have to at least drop the tank get it cleaned and prolly sealed but what can I do for the fuel lines. Is there a way I can clean them of this tar or what I am thinking is just replacing the lines.. ???? The other pics are of the blob that oozed out of the line and the sun roof on top of the car that I dont think are stock.

[d240zx2]

I'd suggest saving yourself a lot of grief and junk the lines. New ones aren't THAT difficult to run. Drop and have the tank professionally cleaned. Don't forget the fuel return lines.

I'm a great believer in Stabil. My Z started on 10 year-old gas only because (I believe) the tank was filled with gas and about a gallon of Stabil added prior to storage. Don't misunderstand...the car didn't run all that well, but it did start and run. Maybe it needed two gallons of Stabil???

Frank

[280~Master]

You can get new lines custom made and they are not that bad to put in as said before. As far as the tank, drop it and POR-15 it.

My local radiator shop will still boil the tank at special request but if you were to bring the tank to them and say clean it of rust they will fill it with muriatic acid and rinse it about 5 or 6 times. So if you think you can handle it do it yourself and save $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[Arne]

Re: the sunroof - No, there was never any 'stock' or factory offered sunroof. Yours (like mine) was added later by a dealer or former owner.

[Triari]

firs off thank you for your time.

I intend to replace the fuel lines with some ss lines, I was wondering tho about the line itself. I have not taken a really good look at it but would think that it was all one part. Can a person for the sake of making the job easy, use as much ss line as possible and use them in parts that are joined by rubber lines...I figure I could use the former lines as templates to make the bends and try to run these lines along the old line route maybe even using them to anchor the new line to. Im not after cosmetic appearance but for function and a reasonable safe set up. I want to get the car on the road as fast as possible. I want to make it my driver and drop in a five speed as soon as i can find one. Im sure I will have to time to perhaps make the entire line in a few parts as possible once I have the tank out and takin to the shop.

any input would be thanked

[d240zx2]

Sure. That sounds like a reasonable way to do it. Just remember that you'll need a guide or bending mandrel of some sort when making your bends, otherwise you're gonna kink the new line.

[Walter Moore]

I don't know about the rubber lines part. There are two fuel lines , tank to engine and return engine to tank. The lines run with the rear brake line in clamps above the drive shaft, and transmission. If you use rubber hoses to splice the pieces together you will end up with sections of hose above those parts. When (not if) the hoses deteriorate you will end up having to take down the drive shaft, and perhaps even pulling the engine and transmission to repair the leak.

Personally, I just bought long straight pieces of standard aluminized brake line from the local auto parts store and bent it to suit. I used flare fittings to join the line pieces together, but I expect that compression fittings would have worked just as well.

I remember that it was 3 different sizes, with the fuel lines being the largest and perhaps the smallest, but I have no notes on what sizes they were.

(My brake lines were rusted to dust.)

As for being easy... you have to pull the engine, transmission, and differential to get to the hard steel lines, but once you have done all that it is only a long tedious job.

Good luck!

[Triari]

The engine runs pretty good from all appearances that can be deceiving It sounds a bit on the ruff side and Im sure the carbs could stand some work also.. Lifting out the engine and the tranny would be allot of work for the tools that I have. I have read that you could ream the lines with speedometer cable, is this and option for me.? I realize what Im asking is a way to ream the entire line from the engine compartment and that might might not be so feasable but I was able to put some air thru it and to my surprise a big wad of the tar was blown out. There is no way I can tell how far it went up but I am able to push air down the entire line. I've tried to desolve the tar substance with what I have in the garage but the standard cleaners I have don't cut it at all ,, any suggestions as to how I can clean the lines without having to totally remove them? Help would be thanked...

[Carl Beck]

Hi Triari:

I would not replace the steel fuel lines ... It really isn't all THAT simple to do anyway.

All you need to do is clean the original steel lines out. Most likely that black tar is from the rubber lines decaying and it's unlikely much of it got too far into the steel lines.

Disconnect the lines (fuel feed and fuel return) at the engine compartment. Get a small funnel and clamp it to the fuel line.... Jack the front of the car up a few inches. Pour Isopropyl Alcohol {Rubbing Alcohol ) into the funnel and let it gravity drain to the rear (you already have the rear lines disconnected from the tank... just put a catch pan back there to catch it when it comes out).

You can buy Rubbing Alcohol at any drug store - and in larger quantities its pretty cheap. Look at the label and see if you can find anything above 70%... sometimes you can and its better for cleaning.

Every half hour or so - check the funnel and refill... When you see the Alcohol run quickly out the back.. you know that nothing is restricting the flow - take some compressed air and blow the lines out. If the flow is restricted.. just let the alcohol dissolve it as it runs slowly past it...

Next you can run a bit of fuel injector cleaner through the lines....(you use the Alcohol first because its cheap and effective)...AMOCO/CHEVRON used to sell a product called Techron with Toluene as the active ingredient - any fuel injector cleaner with Toluene will work just fine (or any Fuel System Cleaner with Toluene) Toluene is a common solvent, you can buy it at most Sherwin Williams Paint stores... Toluene is also a common ingredient in all gasolines, in much reduced proporations...It will clean most crude found in gas lines - out.

Plug the rear of the lines - and pour the fuel injector cleaner (or pure toluene) into them... let it sit for a few minutes... then unplug the lines and let it run out... If the fluid is VERY dirty repeat the fuel injector cleaner... I've never had to do that more than once... No need to clean the toluene out of the lines, it mixes fine with gasoline (actually will raise the octane rating of gasoline).

By now the lines should be clean enough for another 100K miles... and they will get cleaner as you drive and run fresh gas though them... Install a new gas filter and drive the car...

Just my opinion

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Triari]

Thank you for your time brother.

The crud is from the long standing gas Im sure of it, there is allot of it. I know my tank will reflect the same condition. I'll do as you say, I've already ran some alcohol thru it with some good results. It comes out dirty... I'll follow it up with your recommendations.

Once again thank you for your time and my thanks to the others who have replied to my post.